Pendant with a woven frame

Minds ore like panuliutrs. 77icy only function when they are open.

—Sir Jaincs Dcwar (1842-1923)

This unique pefKiant uses the wire-weaving technique to form a bezel. The bait opens in front and is incorporated into the pendant. The piece is a virtual playground for creativity, and we'll show you several ideas for changing its appearance. Have fun!

Materials

Tools

Chen roc glass or stone cabochon

Clamp

Calipers

22-gauge sterling silver wire

Scribe or poncil

Easy solder

20-gougo fine siivor sheet

Bezel roller

Flux

Sterling silver double half-round

Flat-nose pliers

Torch

wire 0.204" x 0.051" (5 mm x

Needle-nose pliers

Sta>n!oss stool binding wire

1.29 mm)

Stepped/chain-nose pliers

Masking tape

Wire cutters

Charcoal block

Nylon-Jaw pliors

Penknife

Jeweler's saw/blade/lubricant

Bowl of cool water

Medium solder

Oichrocgtass cafcocton and the wcmn beni In the damp.

Our cabochon measures -1" (10 cm) around the perimeter, lite bezel must the same length and wide enough to bend just slightly over the front of the cabochon.

Figure 1

Oichrocgtass cafcocton and the wcmn beni In the damp.

Figure 2

Bend Iho nwidk) setotangM -nfl»e

Figure 3

Wrap the indie sdancearoural Bit ottw sets.

Figure 4

Cut ne renumrg wscs Muni to the wrap

Cut nine wires 7" (18 cm) long ami divide into tin« > sets of three wires each. Weave (see Chapter i im weaving instructions) until you have a little nmt than -I" (10 cm) of weave. We're breaking tin- v n sets" rule explained in Chapter 3. but since out) mi side of the weave will Ik visible, it works in tin instance.

BgureS

Ratten the

BgureS

Ratten the

When you haw woven thedesia'd length, remove ih weaving from the clamp. Bend the middle set ai right angle and wrap this set once around tlx* ntlu sets. Trim the middle set on the lt.uk side • »1 lli weave. Squeeze the wires tightly into place »villi |<li ers (Figures 2 and A).

Our cabochon measures -1" (10 cm) around the perimeter, lite bezel must the same length and wide enough to bend just slightly over the front of the cabochon.

Measure the perimeter and height of your cabochon and weave the length and width of the bezel based on your measurements. Here's an easy way to make your measurements: Put masking tape around the outside edge of the cabochon, remove it, and measure the tape. Measure the height with calipers and add 74" (3 mm).

Cut «he remaining win MiiiH to the wrap (Figure 4). File the ends smonili

Flatten the entire tcny.il> ol the wave by squeezing it with nylon-jaw plici\ 1figure 5).

Make a loop of masking la|«c with the sticky side out. Attach the cabochno i«» llie tape to anchor it in place while you're working with the bezel (Figure 6).

Starting at the top, wi.ip iIk- be/el around the cabo-chon (Figure 7). Keep the wire ends at the top of the cahochon so thai the soldered seam eventually will be hidden In' lite hail. 'Hie bevel should lit tightly around the talnichon. Overlap the ends slightly and mark tlx unfinished bczd end at this point. The mark is wIkiv you will begin to finish this end of the be/cl.

Remove the bezel frum the tabochon. Bend the middle set of wires at tin- mark at a right angle and wrap it around tin- irfbn sets as before (figure 8). C.'ut off the remaining wires blunt to the wrap and file smooth, just as >ini .1x1 the other end.

Work stainless steel binding wire through the weave to hold the piece together for soldering. The woven ends should meet and fit very closely together (Figure 91.

maskngtaf*

figure 8

Figure 9

The ends wirt v dosatr maskngtaf*

Figure 7

fitting the *won twtio figure 8

Figure 9

The ends wirt v dosatr

Lay iHc bezel on a charcoal block (Figure 10). Api'h (lux to (lie area lo be .soldered with a small pointi il brush. 'Hie (lux should have the consistent ..i thick cream. Add chips of medium solder around ihc seam where the two ends of the bezel in. > i Don't worry about the binding wire during soldei ing. It may burn or solder onto your piece, hut it will pull off easily and won't do any harm.

Solder and let the piece air-cool (Figure II). /town. llie binding wire and put the woven bezel in the pickle pot to clean. Never put binding wire in ihr pickte. After pickling, rinse the bezel in water.

Place the cabochon inside the bezel to check the lit (Figure 12). lite woven bezel should lit the cabn chon tightly and should be just high enough !•> bend over the top of the cabochon. If the bewl doesn't lit correctly, you'll have to make another. As carpenters say, "Measure twice and cut once"

Liy the cabochon with the bezel in place on a sheet nl line silver and trace amund it with a |himI or scribc (Figure 13). Rough out a shape in the sheet metal with a jeweler's saw (Figure 14).

Figure 16

Thread bindng

Flgore 17

ThebWng back ot the beat.

Remove ihe cabochun anil paint llux on the sheet metal and the bottom of the woven be/cl (Figure 15). Placc the bezel on top of the sheet metal so that the lluxed surfaces are touching.

To hold the bezel in place, thread binding wire through the weave and wrap it around the sheet metal. Make several wraps, working your way from top to bottom (Figures 16 and 17).

If you were to simply put the binding wire on top of the woven bezel, the Ivezcl might collapse. Tighten the wire ¡is you thread it through the bezel. Tie off the wire firmly on the back of the sheet metal.

Bend the binding wire on the front of the piece with pliers to tighten it. Hie bezel and sheet metal should be snug, but not so tight that the bezel bends during soldering (Figure 18).

Figure 14

Rough outa

Figure 15

Add Bui to the

Figure 16

Thread bindng

Flgore 17

ThebWng back ot the beat.

Figure IS

lo moke Mm |iKcm 'JUI

Plaie mure llux ami small pieces o( medium Milder mi llu* sheet metal against the IhvcI, Imlli iuvule and nut. l'se a damp (uol wet) lundi to pick up .uni

Figure IS

lo moke Mm |iKcm 'JUI

Figure 19

Place sotte mit»fcolttw

Figure 22

Figure 19

Place sotte mit»fcolttw

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Figure 22

Figure 23 MarttVc

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