Making The Bail

To make the bail, cut a piece of double half-round wire 3 (7.5 cm) long. Mark the halfway point, place the wire in the ring clamp, and saw the legs apart. (Fig urc 21). Spread the legs apart with a penknife and file any rough edges smooth. Rough out the shape of the top of the bail with steppcd chain-nose pliers (Figure 22). We'll give the bail its final shape a little later. Place the bail on the back of the piece and, when you are pleased with its location, trace the hail outline onto tin...

Anatomy Of The Freeform Bracelet

Starling at the catch end of the bracelet. Figure 59 shows the seven sections and how they alternate overlapping and underlapping. We have flattened the bracelet for demonstration purposes only. Don't do this yourself you'd never get the bracelet to look normal again. Then* arc so many things that can be done with this free-form technique. Play with fhe many possibilities and have fun lh wrt ntftwl Mitt llli rati Am Mil In) set lh wrt ntftwl Mitt llli rati Am Mil In) set

Checklist Before Firing The Bracelet

Use a small round file to clean out the corner holes and make them round. Keep in mind that original PMC will shrink about 25 when fired, so make the corner holes somewhat larger than you want them to be after tiring. Use '100- or 320-gril sandpaper to clean, smooth, and llatten the section backs. Also smooth all sharp edges and corners. Use a needle to remove loose clay around all gem edges. Clean all gemstones front and back with a dampened paintbrush to remove loose clay. When all the...

Cutting and smoothing tools

Bench rise wtlli chimp and anvil The vise clamp onto your workable and is very useful for holding project steady. The aiivil is rned for hammering anil funning. 2. Jeweler's saw. The jewelers uw is an eueiiliul part of any jewelry maker's tool kit. The saw is used to cut shapes out of sheet metal and to cut through heavy wire. You will lind ynurself picking up this saw again and again. 1 Bur Life saw lubricant. Never try to saw without lubricant the result will be much frustration and lots...

Flexible shaft and accessories

The flexible hall machine Ls a very useful tool. You can live without it for a while. It is mv much like the drill u d in the dentist's otttcc. The Ilex-shaft ti ol drilk vjndv forms, and polishes much faster than files and sandpaper wielded by hand. The handpiece- allows precise control and the foot pedal (not pictured) leave* both hands free. A good Hex-shaft is an investment. Koredom and I> remd. among Olivers, pm-duce good flexible shaft machines. If your budgei won't stand the purchase...

Freeform bracelet

77ftr freedom 10 make mistakes provides the best environment for creativity. This bracelet Is fun to make and bogs to be customized. Once you understand the technique, you can try various combinations of wire and materials. Foe example, adding beads or wire coils to the long, curved parts can produce Interesting results. Tire bracelet can be lengthened to make a great ankle bracelet or choker. You can wear it on your upper arm. Cleopatra-style. Maybe you will even invent a new weave It might be...

Guidelines

This will be the front side, > ind the mark should always Ik Hieing you. If you need to put down your weaving to answer the phone (or gel the cat out of the fireplace), you'll always know which side you should be working on. Use a soft cloth to clean and straighten each wire. Fold the cloth over the wire and pull the wire gently but lirmlv through the fold. Always work from right lo left. A sel means a group of wires usually two or three wires per set. >...

Introduction

Angela can fly because they take themselves lightly. ifi at a severe disadvantage when it comes to taking up a new hobby or i n .v *tf< ills Sometime between when we are born and the time we reach i i * we team not to believe in magic. We learn to be self-conscious and i i n of others and ourselves. Adults and adulthood are in quotes for the - I won Hint we do not. in truth, ever grow up. We are just children with w, li . iMiie. and more responsibility. i In I H.> 1 r. mil intended to l>...

L lljid

Since the wire is handled so much during weaving, it will always become work-hardened. If you starl with half-hard or hard wire, the work-hardening will make the wire impossible to work with, and the wire could even break. Sterling silver is preferable to fine silver for weaving. Sterling has more spring to it and a memory for its shape, l-'ine silver is much too soft. After you have worked with silver, try using other materials, ( old-filled wire makes a...

M

You can sec that we have left some silver sheet extending beyond the bczd. If we had made a pendant without the lower legs (they're only decorative), we might have added gold or silver balls or even gemstones. Use your imagination in choosing the cabochon, making the bezel and bail.and adding ornamentation. Slip your pendant on any necklace, including the neckpiece in this book. and gel ready for compli met its Figure 1(> shows the I ,k I. ol lln- n miaul

Making I He Clasp

I'm- needle-nose pliers to twist ihe frame wire so the ll.it vide is facing imvard and the round side is facing outward (Figures 51 and 52). Do this on both sides, close to llic beginning of the wrap. Remem-bcr that the clasp end should measure about (1.3 cm). Use either steppcd chain-nose pliers or round-nose pliers to grasp the very end of one of the frame wires and begin to mil it down and inward (Figure 53). After you have rolled the wire about halfway into a circle. rc > osition your...

Making The Blossom Mold

First we'll sculpt a blossom out of polymer clay, then use the blossom to make a negative mold. The negative mold will in turn be used to make the PMC blossom. We recommend Premo polymer clay for mold making. It's easy to work with, durable, and stays fairly flexible after baking. It should be available at your local hobby shop. Cut a ' (1.3 cm) square from the clay block. Knead the clay until it becomes malleable, then roll it into a ball about' (1.3 cm) in diameter (Figure I). Sprinkle a...

Making The Wire Wraps

If you want to impress a pattern into the wrap wire, place it llat side down on a rigid, flat surface. Q> ver the wire with the sandpaper or other patterning material (wc used a brass patterned sheet, which is available from jeweler suppliers scc Resources ), and hammer evenly with a rawhide mallet. (You could also use a bench vise or a rolling mill to squeeze the patterning material against the wire.) We'll place eight sets of wire wraps around the frame to hold the bracelet together. As you...

Making The Woven Bracelet

Til project consists of the woven part of the bracelet, the frame, ami the clasp, As with all the chapters, please read through the entire project before beginning. Note If you want to impress a decorative pattern into the frame or wrap wire (see instructions on page 26), add the following to your list of tools coarse sandpaper, patterned brass sheet or similar material to use xs a pattern source, and a rawhide mallet or bench vise to hammer or squeeze the pattern into the wire. Can twelve...

Original

Hiring Temperature 650 F 900*0 for two hours. Available in clay, slip, and syringe Shrink rate 28 Pros Because it holds a high percentage of binder material, this clay dries more slowly than other PMC formulas. Slow drying makes it the easiest clay to work with because it stays workable for a longer time. Cons When lircd, it is more porous and. 3S a result, somewhat more fragile than silver sheet. The high shrink-rate will produce smaller pieces, which is an important consideration.

Pmc Tools And Equipment

HanWe metal notl Me ttal tas a rough acta nntl a smoothor sido, orul Dctfi sides can bo used to sand and smooth 1t dried. unfral day. tbcse l es ore eommcrty lound al gnxory stores and 2. Ptc* or needto looL We use Ve to add dctai lo scfl cby ond to remove ettess PMC from an unfiied piece Yoo nvf uee a damng non** and'cr tono aemng needle inticad. Col tfw tardo on * pck mjfces II confortable and. II you staUU drop your too . tta Itandlo mates a p k easier toftnd...

Pmc

I650T (900 C) for 10 minutes 15tfiO F (850 C) for 20 minutes I470T (800*0 for 30 minutes Available in lump. slip, paste, ami paper forms. The lapancse use the paper for mel.il origami, which can Im- woven and ln.udi'il Pros < onies in many forms, is denser than original PMC, which make the fired clay less fragile and porous, and can Ik- lircd at a wider range of times and temperatures. Shrinks less than original PMC Cons PMC i is a little more expensive than original PMC.

Pmc3

1290 F (700O for 10 minutes I200 F (650*0 for 20 minutes 1110 F (600C) for 30 minutes Available in lump form only. Shrink rate 12-15 (about the same as PMC+) Pros Fires at very low lcni > craturcs very quickly. Cons Hits a tendency to develop cracks while drying. Slip or paste can be made from any of the PMC products. It's advisable to use PMC+ slip with PMC+ clay so the shrink rates arc compatible. Slip is made by mixing PMC with water until it is the consistency of whipping cream. Dried-out...

Procedure

(oil eight pieces of wire 10 (25.5 cm) long. Clean and straighten each wire. Align the wires evenly and tightly together and keep them Hat. Wrap tape around one end of the group of wires to keep them together (l igure I). Place the taped end in the clamp. We've used a red dot to mark the front. This mark should always be facing you (Figure 2). Separate the wires into sets of two, pushing the first set toward you and the second set away from you (Figures 3 and 4). Alternate the sets until all...

Precious metal clay

Imagination is the beginning of creation. Yoii imagine what yon desire, yoti will what )vn imagine and at last yon ovate what yon will. For many jewelry makers. Precious Metal Clay (PMC) Is the best invention since the mute button on the remote. You can make PMC jewelry with your hands and a few simple tools. PMC can be hand-formed, used in a push-mold, carved, and sanded. There Is another precious metal clay on the market called Art Clay, and it can be used in place of PMC. It does have...

Soldering tools and equipment

Soldering torch '11k phot graph hows the hoses and li.iivd piccc fmm a I idle torch. < as tanks and gauges arc used with this torch. If j lew expensive lurch is desired, try the Beni O- Matic torch. '11m is a simple acetylene canister with a four-loot hove and one tip and shoukl he adequate fur most of the projects in this hook. 2. Pickle pot. Icwclry is placed hi the pickle pot alter soldering to remove firescole (oxidation). We advise using a small (.'rack-l it a a pickle pot. It's...

Troubleshooting

Figure 26 shows thai two stones haw fallen out after drying. To reattach the purple stone on the left, make the bezel slightly wider with a lile, dam en the hole with a wet paintbrush, and replace the stone. The stone should Ik- seated a little deeper now. To replace the preset stone on the right, paint a little PMC slip around the hole and press the stone back into place. Figure 27 shows .1 gold curlicue that needs to be reattached. Use any pointed object to deepen the depression on the...

Tumbler

This is the vime lumhler used for polishing rocks. In jewelry making, I Ik- tiimlikr is used. along with steel shot and a polishing liquid, such as Sunshcen, to polish jewelry. The steel shot knocks oil any rough place and nukes the ntrtal thine. There are two kinds of steel hot. Carbon steel shot is cheapest, bul it docs rust Stainless slcel shot is more espensive. hut almost main lenance-free. We recommend *taink*ss steel mixed shot, which lus a variety of shapes to polish every tiny place on...

Wire

Contemporary Designs and Creative Techniques including PMC techniques Linda L. Chandler and Christine R. Ritchey Photography locCoc* ml llojrd Kiuhey Cover ami interior detigtv Paillette liver Production Samantlu I luln nil I Van Mown Proofreader and indevct. Nancy Aio.lt lext copyright O 7001 Ijmta I. Chandler und Chnctine K KiuNo Photography copyright O 2004 Joe Ok ami Inlcrwcsve Pre . loc Pnxim photography copyright f> 2tMH I inda I < Juindlcr Photography on pug VI I. 7 copyright O 20W...

Woven neckpiece

All things are tliflicuh before they are easy. Thomas Fuller (1654-1734) This neckpiece is lust wonderful. There is no clasp to bother with just snap it around your neck. Everyone will appreciate its sparkling beauty and adaptability. The photograph, left, shows the neckpiece with a removable slide pendant. In Chapter 9, we'll make such a pendant. The weaving tcchni tic is the same as thai used for You'll be working wilh long wires, so pay special the woven bracelets, hut with longer wires. We...

Pendant with a woven frame

Minds ore like panuliutrs. 77icy only function when they are open. This unique pefKiant uses the wire-weaving technique to form a bezel. The bait opens in front and is incorporated into the pendant. The piece is a virtual playground for creativity, and we'll show you several ideas for changing its appearance. Have fun wire 0.204 x 0.051 (5 mm x Oichrocgtass cafcocton and the wcmn beni In the damp. Our cabochon measures -1 (10 cm) around the perimeter, lite bezel must the same length and wide...

Domed bracelet with pmc bead ends

What Mr learn to Jo, we learn by thing, Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) This is the same bracelet as on page 42, but with no soldering. We're going to use PMC slip to glue the beads onto the ends of the bracelet. Gluing is much easier than soldering. Hud) wire will Ik* a set. This is a single-weave bracelet. < An thirty-six wires 10' (26.5 cm) long. Weave a piece 6' (16.5 cm) long. (See Chapter 3 for weaving techni ties and Chapter 5 for specific bracelet instructions.) Cut off the taped end and any...

A domed cuff bracelet

Whether you bclivve you can Jo a thing or not. yvti arc right. This elegant bracelet is one ot many variations of the woven bracelet in Chapter A. Very fine wires are woven, the weave is domed, and the ends are finished with beads. Because doming makes the bracelet hug your wrist, there is no clasp to bother with, and the line wires give the surface a beautiful sparkle. 22-gauge (0.5 mm) dead-soft Nylon-jaw pliers round sterling silver vwe Noodle-nose pliers Two 12 to 14 mm Bali Deads Fiat-nose...

Mow culling and polishing tools

Scribes .11* used ii> mark heel metal lor t uning, drilling. and measuring. 2 Straight-Okxle shears. Shear> arc useful for culling out metal shajxs and nuking solder chip . Another ga-at cutting tool to have a pjir of loyce Clan wiuoiv These are found in gourmet kitchen shops. They will cut nk l gauges of sheet mewl with little eliorl (and with a lot of effort will cut a penny in halfih Accept no sulmitutc, get ihe original. 3 SSmtess steel precision twe& ers. 'twee en are uied...

Woven cuff bracelet with pmc beads

Idea and execution ure not often entmsted to the fame head. -Ralph Waldo F.mcrson 1805-1882 Here's another domed cuff with a weave tftat uses sets of three wires instead of two. Use PMC3 to form beads that attach to the woven ends. We've added PMC3 bezels with synthetic sapphire cabochons for a luxurious look. 2 synthetic sapphire cabochons 4 mm Refer to Mges 14-21 for weaving technique and to page gt I I -18 lor specific bracelet instructions. Cut 0 Moiling silver wires 10 26.5 cm long. Tape...