Transparent Earring Studs

Style Wire Pendant

Earring Fittings for Pierced Ears

♦ Kidney ear wires - pendant earrings are attached to the loop.

t l:ish-hook with ball and spring - for pendant or drop earrings.

♦ French ear wire with bead and loop - another pendant style.

♦ Flat pad ear studs - these come in a range of sizes. Clav designs are glued to the pad. The 'butterfly' or 'scroll' is available in plastic for sensitive ears.

♦ Milled cup studs - these are very useful for polymer day because the clay can be pressed into the cup to make a cabochon or 'stone'.

Earring Fittings for Non-pierced Ears

♦ Flat pad ear clips - the clip version of flat pad ear studs

♦ Far clip with loops - for use with pendant drops.

♦ Milled cup ear clips - the clip version of milled cup studs.

JEWELLERY FINDINGS AND EQUIPMENT KEY

Genera! findings and beads

1. Chains

2. Jump rings

3. Brooch backs

4. Pendants

5. Semi-precious stones

6. Eyepins

7. Pendant mounts

8. Headpins

9. S-filtings

10. Hair clips

11. Metal beads II. Metal charms

13. Glass and crystal stones

14. Peg and loops

15. Triangle baiLs

16. Rocaille beads

17. Bugle beads

18. Liquid silver

19. Liquid gold 2D. Wire

21. Rings

Earring fittings

22. Flat pad ear studs

23. Milled cup ear studs

24. Scrolls

25. Rat pad ear clips

26. Ear clips with loops

27. Milled cup ear clips

28. Kidney ear wires

29. Fish-hook ear wires

30. French ear wires

Jewellery making equipment

31. Snipe-nosed pliers

32. Beading needles

33. Scissors

Necklace fastenings and stringing

34. Boll ring

35. Torpedo clasp

36. Calotte crimps

37. Spring ends

38. Lace ends

39. Hooks

40. Lealher thong

41. Embroidery thread

42. Cord

43. Beading thread

Purchased Beads and Stones

It is possible to make complete necklaces out of polymer clay beads but the use of a few purchased beads can provide far more variety and enhance the appearance of your hand-made designs.

Rocaille beads - these tiny glass beads come in a rainbow of colours and finishes. Thread them between larger clay beads to accentuate them.

♦ Bugles - these long, thin glass beads are made in a similar range of colours to rocailles.

♦ Plated metal beads - these come in various sizes and add sparkle to necklaces.

> Liquid silver or gold - plated metal, fine tube beads can be cither straight or twisted.

♦ Glass and crystal stones - these can be pressed into the clay before baking. Many different kinds are available - from large round cabochons to tiny rhinestones - all in various colours. Fimo produces an excellent range of crystal stones. Do not use plastic or acrylic stones, which will melt during baking.

♦ Other materials - shell pieces, such as paua and abalone, mother-of-pearl, semi-precious stones, little glass mirrors, metal shapes and ceramic, pottery or metal beads will all withstand the low baking temperatures and can be incorporated into designs.

Jewellery Making Equipment

You will need very few tools for applying findings to jewellery. The most useful are listed below.

♦ Pliers-you will need some fine-nosed pliers for attaching findings and making loops. Round-nosed pliers are used to turn loops in the ends of headpins or wire. Flat-nosed pliers are used to close jump rings and attach findings. Snipe-nosed pliers can be used for all tasks, although they do not turn such round loops as round-nosed pliers.

♦ Wire cutters - these are useful if you intend to do a lot of wire work. A pair of old nail scissors can be used for fine wire.

♦ Beading needles - these can be bought from jewellery suppliers or you can make your own (see page 20).

EWELLERY ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES

Beading Needles Beadsmith

Threading Methods for Necklaces

There are several methods of threading beads: With a fine beading needle, available from jewellery suppliers.

Using a needle made by twisting a fine piece of wire onto the thread as shown above. By applying glue to the end of the thread to stiffen it.

Beading Thread Knot

Knotting the Ends of the Necklace

To fasten the ends of a necklace, make a knot in the end of your beading thread, leaving a tail of about 7.5cm (3in). Thread on the beads, then He a knot as close as possible to the last bead by tying the knot around a needle and sliding it against the final bead as you tighten it. Enlarge the knot if necessary by tying a second knot on top of the first one.

How Attach With Knot For Earring

Attaching Calotte Crimps

You will need to use pliers to attach calotte crimps Pinch a calotte crimp tightly over the knot so that the working thread and tail of thread exit throu$ the hole in the bottom of the calotte. Tug gentlyl' make sure that the knot is too large to pull threnji the hole. Adding a drop of glue to the knot bain closing tho calotte will make it more secure. Thra the tail of the thread back through the first few beads and trim the end.

Attaching the Clasps

To attach a torpedo clasp, simply squeeze shut t»i loops on the clasp over the loops on the calottes. A bolt ring is attached in the same way, with a jump ring at the other end of the necklace. Ope.v jump ring by pushing one end sideways. If you pull the ends apart, you will find it harder to c!< them again into a perfect circle.

Making Loops

Turning a neat loop in the end of a head pin or evepin is one of the most frequently used techniques in assembling jewellery. To make drop earrings, for example, a headpin is threaded with lv.ul>, and a loop is turned in the end of the headpin to which the finding is attached.

Trim the end of the headpin to 6mm (A in) from the top bead. Grip the end in your pliers and turn until the loop is formed. Now grip the other side ot the loop and turn slightly the other way to centralize the loop and open it a little.

Attaching Earring Findings Attach your chosen finding - kidney wire, fishhook and so on - and squeeze the loop shut. Close the loops of kidney wires with pliers.

Linking Eyepins with Loops

Necklaces can be made by threading beads on to eyepins, which are then linked together. First, thread the beads on to the eyepins. Trim the eyepins if necessary, before turning a loop in the end of each, and attaching it to the loop of the next eyepin. Squeeze the loop shut.

Leather Lace Looped End

Leather Thong and Cord

Special findings - spring ends and lace end crimps - are used with leather thong and cord. These findings are simple to attach.

Trim the thong to the required length and position the spring end over the end of the thong. Use your pliers to squeeze the bottom coil hard against the thong so that it grips it tightly. A simple hook fastening can then be attached to one end.

Lace ends are squeezed onto the thong so that their sides enclose the thong. A hook is attached in the same way.

Cluing Findings

Findings such as ear studs, rings and brooch backs need to be glued strongly to the baked clay designs. Remove all traces of grease from both surfaces by wiping them with nail varnish remover. Slightly roughen the surface of the findings with a small file or sandpaper. The surface of the clay can be roughened with an emery board or scratched with a pin.

One of the proprietary superglues or a two-part epoxy glue will give the best results. Superglues are strong and quick setting, but work carefully because they will bond your skin. Use only a tinv spot of glue, just sufficient to give a thin coat on the surface. Hold the two surfaces together for a few seconds, then lay aside to set properly.

Two-part epoxy glues give an extremely strong bond, but they are much slower-setting than superglues. Be careful to mix exactly equal quantities of each part or the glue may not set properly. Mix the two parts thoroughly and apply to one surface. The setting time varies with different glues, but it is usually a minimum of one hour. Try to prop up the jewellery so that the finding is horizontal while the adhesive sets - this prevents it sliding gently off the clay when you are not looking and setting in

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