Instructions

1. Thread rhe needle, double die thread, and condition it.

2. Add a tension bead and then thread on 4" of 8° hex beads.

3. Begin ro singlc-peyote stitch dtese beacs by creating a base row. On the second row, do not stitch all the way to the end, stopping one bead short of the end. Stitch hack down the row and stop one brad short of the end. Continue stitching back and forth, stopping short of the end bead in each previous row, until you're only stitching about a 2" row.

4. Needle through the bead fabric to the end of the first row you stitched and repeat steps I through 3, stopping shor of each row. You will ctcate an elongate oval piece of beadwork. Stop stitchingi the end of a row.

To create an arch:

1. Tfinead on enough beads of a new color and size to create an arch that will go from one end of chc edge of rhe beadwork to the oilier edge.

2. Anchor the arch and begin stitching on that arch, adding an extra bead on the end of each row, until you are stitching a row that is about 5' long.

3. Once the row is 5" long, continue stitch.ng, but stop each row one bead dhort«r than the tow before. When you are down ro a 2" row, you should have a piecr of beadwork diat looks like two elongated ovals attached at the side with a gap between them.

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to create a third elongated oval that is 6" long in the center, mixing the beads in this scction.

5. Add two more elongated ovals, using a variety of beads to the other side of the 6" Whon rhis srep in rnmjJete, you will have five ovals diat are tacked together with long arches between the

To create the pleated effect:

1 Ihread a new needle, double the thread, and condition it.

2. Anchor the thread in the center of one of the ovals.

3. Determine which side of the beadwork you want to be the front, needle over to the top of one of the arches, and bring the needle out the back.

4. Pinch up the edges of two ovals alor.g one of the arches, so the edges are brought forward to die front.

5. Holding the edges so the back of the beadwork is facing up, begin to stitch rhrough rhr br.ids ro rip rhr rwn ov.il*

together, as shown. Do not worry if the ovals arc not perfectly aligned, this will add visual interest to the front of the piece.

6. Needle over to another arch between two ovals, pinch up the edges near the top or the beadwork, Hip the piece over, and begin to rip the arch closed, but stop zipping when you are two-thirds of the way down die opening.

7. Flip die beadwork back over and examine your progress. Do you like wl you see? Needle over and begin to zip another arch closed, but add a pearl or some other bead to the fabric so the | appears to be pecking through from I back.

S. Continue adding ovals with big: between them until you have created i front portion of the necklace that pie you. Viry the sizes of the pleats and I far you zip them closed.

¡»creatc the side picccs:

»Determine how long you want dux Bddice to be when completed. By wing the beadwork up to your neck, _ r how long the two side pieces will id to be to go around your neck and Bp in the back. It will probably require I* or 9" length, to have extra Icngdi overlapping and attaching to the t piece.

a new piece of beadwork by ig the needle, doubling rhc 1. and conditioning it.

3. Thread on 9" of beads, adding them in groups of about 1*.

4. Begin to peyote stitch up and down the piecc, as shown, adding arches as you go. Periodically, hold the sidepiece next to rhc front to gauge the proportion. When it is nearly wide enough, set this piece aside.

5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 four the other side of the necklace.

ich the sides to the center:

ige the three picccs on your work c. Determine which of the two ces will be the left and which will ! right.

rad your needle, double the thread, ition it.

• not anchor the thread! You will be ; (temporarily stitching together)

>ieces onto your front piece : how you want to attach them ■ by ripping them together with 1 of stitching.

4. Fit the right side and front piece together and lightly baste the two together. You can overlap the edges and just stitch down through the beadwork for now.

3. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the other side.

6. Hold the necklace up and fir it around your neck. How does it feel? Are the side pieces long enough? (Remember, we will be adding the beaded toggle clasp, so you will have an opportunity to make the side pieces a little longer.) Make some notes on what you need to do from a construction point of view.

7. Pull out the basting rhread from one side and anchor the thread in the beadwork.

8. Attach each sidepiece to the front by sipping the sides to the front piece, for a finished look like that shown below.

3. At the other end of the necklace, securely anchor a thread and string on 2W of beads and stitch back using peyote stitch.

5. Once you're satisfied with the length of the loop, stitch back and forth on the loop to increase the width. You 1 want to stitch back and forth through the beads on die loop to reinforce the beadwerk and to fill the beads widi as much thread as possible. 'Ihis section takes a lot of wear and tear when wc

In sico 2 of the beocec cioip section, vou will wont to fill »he beods ol the closu bar with os much thread as vou cor. ouuing the threod tightly so It* beadwork is quite stiff. Needle through the beads that onchor the to9Slc os well to reinforce that section.

3. At the other end of the necklace, securely anchor a thread and string on 2W of beads and stitch back using peyote stitch.

4. Bend the strip around to create a loop. Test the loop to sec if it is large enough-(You can always make the loop smaller, but its challenging to have to cut a loop of several rows of beads to enlarge it!) Anchor the loop by attaching to the beadwork.

To create the beaded clasp:

1. "lhc bar portion of die clasp sluuld be stitched onto the left side of the project. Needle through to the end of the sidcpiocc and add nine 1 I * bc.-idx.

2. Singlc-pcyote stitch back along these nine beads and when you get to the center, add another nine beads and stitch back to the center. Continue stitdiing back and forth along these beads to create a toggle for the necklace.

This necklace combines the three primary techniques showcased in Ihls book: wlrework, stringing, and improvisations beodwork. I createc the antiqued silver pieces on this nocklacc with Precious Metal Clav. You could duplicate the pieces and use sliver polymer clay that is antiqued with block acylic paint for a similar effect.

Sectioned ceramic watercolor dish Flat file

Clear tape (optional)

Materials

20 10mm to 12mm lompvork beads (Note: the hole must te oble to slide onto the wire diameter.)

4 to 6 oz. metallic and matte finish beads: size 8° hex beads ond size 11° Japanese seed beads in purple siodcs, silver, and black

4 to 6 oz. matte bugle beads

2 to 3 oz. matte purple "E" beads

2 to 3 oz. silver metallic round Czech seed beads

36* 14-gouge silver coated copper wire

6 36" lengths .019 metal core stringing cord

Silver clasp with three loops

6 sliver crimp beods

Needle nose pliers

Crimping pliers

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