Materials And Tools

20 to 25 freshwater near Is

21 Inches (00 cm) ot sterling sil\ er wire 21 gauge (.5 mm)

2.25-mm mandrel or U.S. si/e I knitting needle


Photo on page 53

Thread the pearls onto the wire, twisting them into the wire as shown in the drawing at right. Put the mandrel and one end of the wire into the drill chuck.

Carefully make a coll. Remove the coll from the mandrel and turn it onto the Stickpin. Pinch in the ends ol the wire.

twisting m:\ns into wire

Thread the beads onto the wire. Starting about I '/♦ inches (3 cm] from one end. twist on the first bead, as shown. Allow & inch (1.5 cm I betw een beads.

Willi ihe same wire and mandrel, try these easy stickpin ornaments:

Coil llead

Make a coll from a 28-inch 170 an) long wire. Place the coll on a 12-inch (30 cm) long wire and make a new coil (see page 12).

Double Coll Itead

Make a coil head. Place it on a 12-inch (30 cmi long w ire and make a new coil from the bead.

I admire jewelry with wires braided in what seem impossibly complex patterns. But if you lake a closer look at the technique. it often turns out that it's not as complicated as it seems. I believe that if you can make woven heart baskets for the Christmas tree or braid hair, you can probably braid w ire |ewelry.

One important difference Is that metal can «et fatigued and brittle when it's worked. In the worst cases snapping off entirely. To avoid that, use fine (.999) silver. It's a little more cosily, but in this case, necessary. If you don'i want to use fine silver, you can substitute finer wire (laid double or tripled) for the wires called for In the directions. The result will be nearly the same.

If a few of the wires are put through the pasta maker, the resulting flat wires will give a touch of Interest when mixed with round w ires in the braid. At the same time, the pasta maker will make the wire a little harder, although that doesn't mean as much If you're using Tine silver. If you use the pasta maker when making an S-clasp. it will harden the wire and make it stronger.

You'll need a vise, a piece of soft leather, a plastic hammer, round-nose pliers, two pairs of flat-nose pliers, wire cutters, a pasta maker, a hook that will fit in the chuck of the drill, an eggbeater drill, winding mandrels, ring and bracelet mandrels, a small file, and a block of hardwood drilled with '/«- to S'/i-lnch (2 to 8 mm) holes (see page 91. Use .999 fine silver wire, or colored or plain copper wire.

I'xsiiiomm; tiik bk \ii>


Shape the ring around a ring mandrel turning the ring so that lite llat side the braid faces ihc mandrel. Kind the right size: better that it's a-little loo small than loo big. The ring can always be enlarged slightly on the ring mandr

Take one w ire from each end and cul off the other strands close to the braid. Turn and pinch in ihe ends that are clos-to the braid. The two remaining wires on each side are sewn into the opposite side, as shown. Before threading the wir-in you may need to open a hole with a needle to keep from bending the wire.

finishing tiik BK Ml)

You will gel a smooth, regular surface on your braided piece if you draw it through a wooden block with various size holes before attaching beads lo It.

The finished braid can be shaped around almost anything round. \ bracelet or ring mandrel is preferable, bin anything ol the right size will do.

Finally, the finished braid should be lightly pounded with a plastic hammer to achieve the right shape.

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