The surfaces of these bracelet beads are not hard at all to create. You get to use a rubber stamp to create the random-sized and positioned circle shapes and then the chalks do all the work to achieve the fine details. I have listed the chalk colors that I used to make this brace-
Ultramarine blue and white polymer clay
Translucent liquid clay
Soft pastel chalk set
Acrylic bead roller
Clear elastic cord
G S Hypo Cement
Soft round paintbrush
M (2mm) drill bit no. 3 knitting needle (or a wooden skewer)
Rubber stamp (with dots in various sizes)
Cornstarch or baby powder
Craft blade knife
Pasta machine let, but feel free to change them to your favorite colors. You can use another stamp as well, although I do recommend a bold, geometric design, as it will provide the best results for this technique.
1 Create two domed strips
Roll a rope of blue clay that is Vit" (1cm) thick and 10" (25cm) long, and cut it in half. Dust the half oval trough of the acrylic bead roller and the clay ropes with cornstarch or baby powder. Press one rope onto the channel to evenly fill it. Remove the clay and repeat using the second clay rope. Clean powder from the surface with a moist paintbrush. Allow the clay to dry and secure to a ceramic baking tile. Press a stiff slicing blade against the sides of the clay bases to straighten them. Bake for 10 minutes. Allow the clay to cool. Rub a thin layer of translucent liquid clay onto the surface of both strips to act as glue.
Roll a sheet of blue clay to Vq" (3mm) thick (thickest pasta setting) and secure to a baking tile. (I have used a lighter blue for clarification; you may use the same blue.) Brush a little water (as a release agent) on the bottom of a strip and set on the blue clay base. Trim the base with a craft blade knife and remove any excess clay. Create a base for the second strip. Remove the domed strips and dry the bottom surface.
Press a knitting needle W (6mm) from each long edge of the bases to create two starter bead holes. Apply a thin layer of liquid clay to the raised area only (not the indentations) of the bases and secure the domed strip tops. Bake for 10 minutes, then allow the clay to cool.
Roll a white sheet of clay through the pasta machine at the thickest setting and secure to a baking ceramic tile. Brush your finger against a stick of periwinkle blue chalk and rub it into the clay surface. Dust the rubber stamp with powder and press firmly onto the clay. Remove the stamp.
5 Decorate the veneer
Rub on random areas of royal blue, purple and fuchsia chalk to the surface using your fingers. Hold each stick of chalk 1" (3mm) above the clay and scrape particles over the clay surface with your fingernail or a craft blade knife. Roll over the clay sheet once with an acrylic bead roller to secure the chalk particles.
Run the sheet through the pasta machine at the second thickest setting. Wipe the pasta machine rollers with a dry paper towel to remove any chalk residue. Roll the sheet through at the third thickest setting, and then the fourth thickest setting. Clean the roller again. Cut the veneer in half as shown.
Wet-sand the long side edges and surfaces of each strip until smooth, using 400-grit then 600-grit sandpaper. Let dry. Apply a thin layer of liquid clay to the clay surface as glue. Center and drape a chalked veneer over each strip. Handle the veneer carefully as the chalk can smear at this stage. Trim away any excess clay with a craft blade knife.
Press the sheet from the center outward to prevent trapping air. Using a slicing blade, trim away the excess clay flush with the bottom edges and the strip ends. Apply a thin layer of liquid clay to the veneer surface and let the project set for 15 minutes. This gives time for the liquid to level itself. Bake for the full recommended time and allow the clay to cool.
9 Sand and buff the strips v
Wet-sand the top and long-side edges of the clay strips (refer to "Finishing" on page 21) starting with 400-grit, working up to 800-grit. Dry the clay strips. Buff the clay surface with denim for a natural sheen. Place one clay strip in the oven for 8 minutes, then remove the tile and place it on a potholder on your work surface. Use a second potholder on top of the tile to prevent your hand from touching it.
The tile will be very hot during this step, so use extreme caution! While the clay is still very warm, slice it into V.i" (6mm) wide beads with a new, sharp slicing blade. Keep the beads lined up and in order. Repeat steps 9 and 10 with the second veneer strip. Measure your wrist. You'll probably have extra beads, so take out the less interesting ones. Cut two 1 8" (46cm) pieces of clear elastic cord. Fold a piece of masking tape over one end of each cord.
Thread the beads in order onto elastic cord until it is the desired length. If a bead hole is too small, enlarge it with a drill bit while tightly pressing the bead layers together around that hole. Tie the two corresponding ends of each cord together with a square knot. Clip the elastic ends to Ven (3mm) long. Add a dot of G-S Hypo Cement to each knot and gently pull the knots into a bead to conceal them.
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