Measure your wrist with a tape measure. Add 1 Vi?: (4cm) to the total length so the bracelet will mi freely and to compensate for the clasp and "E" beads. From this tc length, decide how many 1" (3rr wide tiles you will need to make.
4 Assemble the two-layer bead base
Form a smooth ball using V2 cube of white clay. Roll the ball into a (2cm) thick by approximately 5" (13cm) long smooth rope of clay. Mist the acrylic bead roller oval trough with water and press the clay rope into the shape. Trim the overlapping ends with your slicing blade. Remove the clay and secure to a ceramic baking tile, flat side down.
Place a transparent ruler up against the side edge of the clay strip. It should measure 5" (13cm) long. If not, trim to this length. Cut the clay into five 111 (3cm) long pieces using a slicing blade. If you're making 6 or 7 tiles, roll a short, 5/s" (2cm) rope, mist the trough with water once again and press rope into the shape. Remove clay strip and cut extra 1" (3cm) long bead(s).
Print your image on an inkjet printer using the best quality setting for a borderless photo. Cut out a 1 V2" (4cm) high by 7/s" (2cm) wide piece of card-stock to use as a template. Trace the template onto the image in 5 to 6 places. Set the image aside to allow the ink to dry and to prevent it from getting wet during the next steps (inkjet ink will bleed if it gets wet at this point).
4 Assemble the two-layer bead base out each image with scissors just inside the traced line. Roll the transfer layer edge toward the center of the image, grasp the top layer and remove the transfer from its paper backing.
(The image itself is more durable than you might expect.) Center the image over a clay tile so the rounded edges on are either side and place it onto the clay. Smooth the image, gently rubbing the surface from the center outward and press the top and bottom ends around to the back side of the clay tile.
Roll V2 cube of conditioned white clay to W (2mm) thick (third thickest pasta setting), making a long strip that measures at least 12" (30cm). (If you're making 6 tiles, make it 14" [36cm]; if 7 tiles, 16" [41cm]). Cut the strip in half and place pieces on a baking tile. Using a stiff slicing blade, cut a 3/s" (10mm) wide strip down the center of o~ sheet. Lift the Vs" (10mm) wide clay strip and place it horizontally in the center of the second sheet. Lift the remaining two clay pieces and place them on the second sheet, 3/i6M (5mm) away from the cent strip, to form two channels (refer to step 7).
Apply an even coat of translucent liquid clay to the top strips. Avoid getting the liquid into the channels. The liquid will act as glue during the baking cycle to tightly secure the layers together.
Press the transfer beads onto the strip, centering the top and bottom edges over the two channels, with the curved edges on either side. Cut away the excess clay from around all four sides of the beads using a stiff slicing blade. Check the sides of the beads to make sure the holes will easily accommodate the cording (see a side view of the tiki bead, top right).
Roll a smooth %" (2cm) ball of black clay and shape it so it's tapered at both ends. Pierce two holes through the bead, V (6mm) apart, using a toothpick. Place the bead onto a curved index card or cardstock to bake. Bake all the beads as directed for the full recommended time for this thickness of clay. When completely cool, check to make sure the cording fits through all of the holes. If needed, you can enlarge the holes with a slightly larger drill bit. Squeeze the bead layers together as you slowly drill by hand.
9 Color tint the transfers and varnish the beads
Rub the applicator stick against the side edge of a chalk stick to pick up color, then apply the color inside the designs. You can layer chalk colors as well as overlap them to create blended hues. When the designs are complete, tint the background if desired. I used a fuchsia on the project sample. Tint the remaining white areas of the beads with your background color. Apply 2 or more coats of floor finish to the beads to protect the image and give the tiles a nice shine (refer to "Finishing" on page 21).
Thread 10 glass "E" beads onto the center of the elastic cord. Thread each tile (except the last one), placing one "E" bead between them.
To add the last tile, thread the elastic through an "E" bead and then through the top hole of tile. Add another "E" bead to the elastic. Thread the elastic up into the right hole of the toggle bead and then down through the left toggle hole. Add an "E" bead and then thread the elastic through the bottom hole of tile. Tie a square knot in the cord ends, add a dot of G-S Hypo Cement to the knot and gently pull it into the second tile bead hole to conceal it.
if■ Etched Leaf Pin
The design featured on this clay pin is created with a piece of paper that has a spiral shape punched out of the center and is cut into a leaf shape. The paper will be pressed onto the clay, acting as a mask, which will prevent the metallic leaf from adhering to this specific area.
This reverse stencilirg or "masking" technique is what gives this piece a realistic etched look. Your eye tells you that the .black area has been etched or carved away because the metallic leaf appears raised on the clay.
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