I Crimping

Position the crimp bead in the hole of the crimping pliers that is est to the handle. 1 Holding the wires

I apart, squeeze the tool to compress the crimp bead, making sure one re is on each side of * the dent, j Place the crimp ead in the front hole I of the tool, and posii it so the dent is facing outward. Squeeze the l tool to fold the crimp in half.

Plain loops and jump rings: opening and closing

| Hold a loop or jump ring with two pairs ] of chainnose pliers or bentnose pliers.

To open the loop or jump ring, bring the tips of one pair 1 of pliers toward you I and push the tips of the other pair away.

Reverse the steps to close the loop or

Loops, plain

Using chainnose pliers, make a light-angle bend approximately 'A in. (6mm) from _ the end of the wire.

Mm Grip the tip of the wire in roundnose pliers. Press downward ! . slightly, and rotate the

Let go, then grip the loop at the same place on the pliers, and keep turning to close the loop.

The closer to the tip of the roundnose pliers that you work, the smaller the loop will be.

Loops, wrapped

Using chainnose pliers, make a right-angle bend approximately j IV. in. (3.2cm) from the end of the wire.

Position the jaws of your roundnose pliers in the bend.

Curve the short end of the wire over the

.se pliers. Wrap the wire three times. Trim gently press the cut end close to the wraps with chainnose pliers.

.se pliers. Wrap the wire m i

Loops, wrapped above a top-drilled bead

Center a top-drilled bead on a 3-in. (7.6cm) piece of wire. Bend each wire end upward, crossing them into an X above the bead.

Using chainnose pliers, make a small _ bend in each wire end so they form a right angle.

Wrap the horizontal wire around the vertical

_ loop. Trim the excess wrapping wire, apped loop with the vertical


Conditioning thread

Use either beeswax (not candle wax or paraffin) or Thread Heaven to condition nylon thread (Nymo). Beeswax smooths the nylon fibers and adds tackiness that will stiffen your beadwork slightly. Thread Heaven adds a static charge that causes the thread to repel itself, so don't use it with doubled thread. Stretch the thread, then pull it through the conditioner, starting with the end that comes off the spool first.

Ending/adding thread

To end a thread, weave back into the beadwork, following the existing thread path and tying two or three half-hitch knots around the thread between beads as you go. Change directions as you weave so the thread crosses itself. Sew through a few beads after the last knot before cutting the thread.

To add a thread, start several rows prior to the point where the last bead was added. Weave through the beadwork, tying half-hitch knots as you go, and exit where you left off.

Use re beads temporarily when you begin stitching. Choose a bead that is distinctly different from the beads in your project. String the stop bead about 6 in. (15cm) from the end of your thread, and go back through it in the same direction. If desired, go through it one more time for added security.

Brick stitch

Work off a stitched ladder (see Ladder stitch). Pick up two beads. Sew under the thread bridge between the second and third beads on the ladder from back to front. Sew up the second bead added and then down the first. Come back up the second bead.

For the row's remaining stitches, pick up one bead. Sew under the next thread bridge on the previous row from back to front. Sew back up the new bead.


Ladder stitch beads, sew through the first bead again, and then sew through the second bead (a-b). Add subsequent beads by picking up one bead, sewing through the previous bead, and then sewing through the new bead (b-c). Continue for the desired length.

I While this is the most common technique, it produces uneven tension along the ladder of beads because of the alternating pattern of a single thread bridge on the edge between two beads and a double thread bridge on the opposite edge between the same two tension by zigzagging back through the beads in the opposite direction. Doing this creates a double thread path along both edges of the ladder. This aligns the beads right next to each other but fills the bead holes with extra thread, which can cause a problem if you are using beads with small holes.

When you're using ladder stitch to create a base for brick stitch, having the holes filled with thread doesn't matter because the rows of brick stitch are worked off the thread bridges, not by sewing through the beads. If you're using the ladder as a base for Ndebele herringbone stitch, extra thread is potentially problematic, because you'll be sewing through the ladder base more

There are two a with the

For the first, center a bead on a length of thread with a needle attached to each end. Pick up a bead with one needle, and cross the.other needle through it (a-b and c-d). Add all subsequent beads in

To begin the other alternative method, pick up all the beads you need to reach the length your pattern requires. Fold the last two beads so they are parallel, and sew through the second-to-last bead again in the same direction (a-b).

Fold the next loose bead so it sits parallel to the the ladder, and loose bead in the same direction (a-b). Continue sewing back through each bead until you exit the last bead of the ladder.

If you are working in tubular brick or Ndebele herringbone stitch, sew yoi ladder into a ring to provide a base for the new technique. With your thread exiting the last bead in your ladder, sew through the first bead and then back through the last bead, needles through the first bead if you are using the crossweave technique.

Ndebele herringbone: flat stitched into a ladder (see Ladder stitch). Turn the ladder, if necessary, so your thread exits the end bead pointing up. Pick up two beads, and go down bead on the ' b ladder (a-b). Come up through the third bead go down through the fourth bead (b-c). Repeat across the ladder.


To make a turn, sew down through the end bead of the previous row and back through the last bead of the pair you just added (a-b). Pick up two beads, sew down through the next bead in the previous row, and sew up through the following bead (b-c). Continue adding

¬°of be ss the i t. You m choose to hide the edge thread by picking up an accent or smaller bead before you sew back through the last bead of the pair you just added.

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