The Cup Type Earring

This type earring uses a patented spring clip that grabs or pinches the earlobe

The ear screw findings

are soldered onto the backs and the earrings polished.

There are several types available at jewelry supply stores. Two sizes are shown here -rHolh of sterling silver. They come in two parts, one to be soldered onto the earring and "^Tie other, the clip, is to be assembled aher soldering by forcing the two pivot prongs into ^Jie Holes of the other. More tension or grab can be provided by slightly bending the spring Eece.

Types Indian Hats

navajo hatband

The Natani Nez or head man high broad brimmed hat has been opular with the Navajo men since it was introduced by the Spanish and traders. It can be seen being worn in some ol the earliest pictures of Navajos in the 186Q s.

The silver hat band appeared around 1900 ar was worn especially at dances and ceremonials1 on the reservation.

This hat was spectacular enough when worn by a six foot plus tall Navajo, with his concha belt and turquoise jewelry. But when a beautiful silver hat band was added, usually with an eagle feather tucked into the side of it, he was truly a magnificent sight.

One bow is soldered in the center of the band, the other is soldered at -one end overlapping half of the bow. A button" of V inch length of 12 gauge wire with a silver bail on top is soldered onto the bach ol the bow fi

A hat band set with 32 high quality Persian turquoise stones.

Two silver bows" are made for each hat band. 1 inch by J inches in size and stamped as shown.

Moles are drilled Iff1' ^¡¿V^"^. or Punc'ie^ anc* notched.a the other end of the banfrto

Silver cups ^oSSfeto^J0"" "button holes" for 5 millimeter'V^U^BS^Ofc*,^^

on the bows.

The stones are set and the band is darkened, buffed and polished.

A strip of 20 gauge^ sheet silver is cut inch wide and 25 inches long. This length is approximate.^ rfs it depends on the size of the hat Also It is made adjustable by makinggj button holes" and a silver pott button - lines ore drawn and a suitable design -¡tamped; in thw^e rows the entire length ol the.silver strip. An outlining or incising die is stampofl.^ along the design to give it more depth <—■ All the edges Bre filed slightly round


This, the present day "cowboy" version of Ihe Nalani Nez hat. is worn by many of the young Navajos on or oM the reservation, it is essentially the same as the old style Stetson body but blocked "cowboy" style with a top crease, sides pinched and swept brim. The young Indians prefer a concha type hat band or belt rather than the solid silver band, <md also it is new and different.

A hoie is drilled to accommodate the jewelers saw blade and the 1/2 by 1/2 inch hole is cut and tiled for the belt.

14 conchas and a buckle make up this hat belt but the number depends on the hat size and how closely they are spaced.

A rectangular piece off 20 guage silver is cut j 1 inch by 1-1/4 inch ¿^id the center is marked-

íale and ?d to female oval button form the small

The design is stamped around the ~ edge and scallops

^ tiled outlining the design

Here the same size blank is used for both the buckle and concha

A one inch piece of 14 ga^ silver wire is cut to make the cross bar and the ends flattened. This is soldered to the back of the buckle. A tongue is made from the same size piece of silver wire tiled, and benl around the cross bar.

The buckle Is then darkened, buffed and polished.

A design is stamped around the conchas and filed outlining the design.

Belt hasps are made from strips of 3/16 inch 22 gauge copper sheet bent around a 1/4 inch wide file.

These are soldered to the back ol the conchas. The conchas are darkened, bulfed. and polished. Copper is used because it is soft and when the then strung onto the belt. concha is in place on Ihe bell it can easily be mashed down, (irmly holding the concha.

Copper Naja

I tit jV. if/i i^nja ¡s name o) the pendant at the bottom of the squash blossom necklace. If is also worn in the center of the Navajo headslall or bridle. .«l m a.

The najas shown here are alt made of triangle or 1/2 round wire about 5 gauge or larger, beni around a form or mandrel They are all handwrought. not cast

The loops formed in this manner can be clipped apart \ and flattened \ on an anvil with a rawhide M\ mallet.

A 1-1,2 inch pipe coupling is welded to a piece of sleel plate, a peg or screw is used to hold the wire while bending it several limes around the pipe coupling.

The center or smaller one was hand shaped to fit inside the larger one.

A loop or ring is made for hanging the naja by soldering 2 pieces of 9 gauge 1/2 round wire about 1*1/4 inches long 1o the center ol the back at the top of the naja. This is . bent forward into a ring with a _ V pair of round nose pliers. * \

Two small square pieces of 24 gauge silver sheet are soldered an under the ends.

Cups are made, for the three stones, with bezels and plate and the cups are soldered on the front of the two loops at the ends and the top center.

Only a few of the many styles of najas are shown here, the . designs of which can ] only be limited by the f imagination.

The naja ¡s darkened or antiqued, the stones are set and It Is polished.

the squash blossom m

It is very probable the Navajo copied the pomegranate blossom from the silver trouser ornaments of the Spanish, and ¡1 is fairly certain someone else applied the word squash blossom, because the Navajo called these ornaments. Bead which spreads out.

Types Indian Jewelry

A very attractive traditional style squash 1 P blossom 0 necklace ^^ with a

^L stamped jfc^design naja W made from

9/16 Inch discs of 2B gauge % Asilver are cut for each blossonv^ft When domed in a dapping block ^L are 1/6 Inch smaller iL and fo* beads 7/16 inch in size. ^L^ These edges of the halves are ^

filed on a flat file so they fit toother evenly. Holes are punchedWeach half with a •Jl small pointed punch. A strip ^J

of silver solder about 1/16r <" jt inch wide and longer than

W% the be^Lis wide, is laid ^ acHS one half of the P iAad. the other half

A bead is placed on top of the strip of solder

.he young pomegranates are shown hero to illustrate probability that the 'squash blossom" is ¿p reality a copy of -pomegranate blossom.

on top of the s^ip of solder a iff ho wn. Liquid flu* is painted on.

heat is applied and the halves soldered together.

The small i^ilver pomegranftti is from Spain, the larger ones ¡ire "■^tVorri' Mexico,

An ancient and very worn squash or pomegranate blossom earring.

Three old Navajo silver squash blossoms" of the 1060 s.

Squash Blossom Design

the turquoise squash blossom necklace

Bezels are made for all the stones

Each is soldered on a 1 inch by 1/2 inch piece of 24 gauge silver plate.

Each is stamped as shown with a V design

The stamped plate is trimmed outlining the stamped design.

Pieces of 24 guage silver are cut 3/4 inch by 1/2 Inch and two holes drilled or punched in each. These will be soldered vertically onto the back of the plate A

Two pieces of number 9 half round wire are bent to form the naja and the ends . soldered.

Cups are made tor all the stones and the cups are soldered onto the front of the naja.

The blossom ends are made / ^ffl as shown on page 35.

Three parts are soldered together with the aid of the "third hand" device.

ZEfct Each is pickled in acid fj. The stones are set 1

l?3 and each blossom is 'tK

jf polished. Jf '

A piece of 24 gauge silver ^n plate 3/4 Inch by 1/2 inch /J

with two holes drilled ST thru it is soldered vertically onto V*. •ft* j, i the back of the top of the naja. This is *

▼ <r jp * the naja is strung onto the necklace

This is called a butterfly design squash blossom i, # necklace by the Indians because of Jf the resemblance V of the fa- squash * t blossoms

The stones are set and the naja polished

This necklace is a traditional design y with a turquoise mounted on each ^ blossom and (rom three to twelve * or more in the naja. These stones are greenish turquoise from •. the blue gem mine.

This necklace w of 174 seven millimeter silver beads is strung on foxtail" bead cord ri a

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  • katrin propst
    How to make navajo beaded bracelet and cut for length?
    5 years ago

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