The J Arge Stone Classic Bracelet

The large bracelet presents a greater problem of construction because it is more difficult to bend the heavier parts and also the larger mass of silver needs a great amount of heat in order to solder it.

The 2 gauge triangle wire shanks, inches long, are stamped with a selected design and then bent into a "V" shape wide enough to accommodate the large stone, using a vise. The three pieces, including a center strip of number 4 gauge round bead wire, are soldered together at the Bnds. After being soldered, the bracelet is shaped around a bracelet mandrel.

A strip of 26 gauge silver is cut, stamped and filed with a scalloped design to form the bezel for the large stone. The bezel, twisted wire, bead decoration and 7 mm. cups are soldered onto a large plate of 24 gauge silver. The entire assembly is sawed out with a jeweler's saw as shown.

Moka Stone Indian Jewellery

For decoration on the sides, a concha of appropriate size is split in two and half is soldered on each side of the bracelet below the plate. Three small round cups are then soldered onto each concha half to make up the side decoration. The large center stone is set first, then the small ones. The bracelet is then polished.

The large stone bracelet or ring surrounded by small stones deserves special credit. There is something about surrounding a targe stone with smaller ones that makes it outstanding, a classic work of art. This is true of all large stones, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, or turquoise. When surrounded by a band of smaller stones, the large stone has more prominence, importance, beauty and classic appearance.

THE ZUNI STYLE TURQUOISE INI AY BRACELET

The inlay bracelet developed by the Zuni artist and craftsman is near the height of the development of the craft. There is no limit to the number of designs that can be executed. However the simpler or less complicated ones are usually the most pleasing.

The base plate is soldered onto one of the side pieces as shown. It is a good idea to saw or trim away the extra silver before soldering the other side piece into place. This is to reduce the amount of heat necessary for solder* ing. Two pieces are cut to fit the outside curve of the bracelet and bent to fit. They are then soldered on top of the side pieces. This covers the ends like a box with a space in the center for the stones. The inlay bracelet should be constructed entirely of heavy silver. This should be of at least 18 gauge thickness to prevent the bracelet being bent while putting it on or taking it off the wrist, or while it is being worn. Since the stones are cemented securely into their channels, any movement of the silver may loosen them and cause them to come out. It is very difficult to repair this type of jewelry if it is broken.

A narrow channel bracelet of Glue Gem turquoise circa 1955

Designs such as this bracelet can be utilized to make use of smaller pieces of turquoise.

Turquoise and coral channel bracelet of unique design

A bracelet with two rows of channel stones shaped into a ridge down the center

A strrp of 18 gauge silver is cut to size and tht ends tapered. It is then bent over a bracelet man dret to fit the wrist,

Seven strips of 18 gauge silver are cut the exact lengths for their positions and soldered in to divide the spaces into 6 equal parts. These strips extend a little higher than the surface of the turquoise is expected to be, so they can be ground down flush with the surface of the turquoise. Eighteen pieces of silver are cut to fit between the cross bars and are soldered into place, several at a time, to form 24 spaces for the turquoise stones.

A combination of jet and turquoise forming a domed center

A pair of channel bracelets set with thin slabs of Number Eight turquoise

Each stone must be ground individually for each box or channel. The stones should be cut slightly wedge-shaped, similar to the plug of a watermelon. The best method is to cut a few to fit, about two or three rows at a time. These are cemented into place before cutting others. The stones must be left to dry thoroughly before cementing.

Several are cemented in at a time and the epoxy cleaned away so the next stone can fit snug in the channel. Considerable skill and care in grinding is needed to complete this bracelet. To create a stronger bond, the bracelet can be placed near a lighted electric bulb to heat for several minutes. {No closer than 6 inches.) The turquoise surface should be ground smooth on a cutting wheel, then sanded and the entire bracelet polished.

A good quality, two component, epoxy should be used. "Easypoxy' is one of the best (See page 37).

The finished bracelet of fine Castle Dome turquoise

Indian Necklaces Made Out Paper

The formed box, or the box that is formed over a wooden form or pattern, is one of the easiest large boxes to make. The use dictates the size. This box is for cigarettes. Boxws can be made for cigars, candy, jewelry and many other articles.

Box by Jimmy Herald

Two pieces of hardwood are cut to the exact size of the inside of the box. Paper patterns should always be made to determine the correct size of the silver, showing exactly where the corners are to be cut out.

Silver sheet of 22 gauge or heavier should be used. After the sheet <s carefully marked and the corners cut out, it is clamped between the two wooden blocks and bent with a rawhide mallet. A third wooden block can be used in the forming, as a buffer between the mallet and the silver.

When satisfactorily shaped, the corners are soldered. Any warping caused by heating may be corrected by inserting the block and straightening the box with a rawhide mallet.

Box by Albert Hardy, 1947

The completed bottom of the box. The outside dimension* of the box are used to deter mine the size of its lid.

The lid 1 its over the bottom of this box like a cap. Usually hinges are applied but this type can also be used without hinges. The size of the lid is determined and a piece of silver cut out large enough to fit, allowing a little extra for the bending. g

Box by Jimmy Herald

Two more hardwbbff blocks are made, slightly larger than the first two. These are to be used for forming the iid.

After a design is stamped ii^3 round the edge, the lid shoul be domed on a piece of densi neoprene rubber, with a hardwood dowel slightly rounded on the end.

After the lid is domed the edges are bent a round one of the hard wood blocks and then soldered.

THE sum Tor BOX

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This type of box is made with a large stone or , shell for the top with the side formed of a single piece of silver bent to reflect the shape of the object mounted in the top. 11 is probably the most difficult of the boxes to make.

Box with larga turquoise top garr**-

A shell is selected; its size determines the size of the box mm iM,

All the silver is 24 gauge. A piece of silver Vh inches wide and thn sume length as the perimeter of the shell is cut, slam pad. bent and soldered to form

All the silver is 24 gauge. A piece of silver Vh inches wide and thn sume length as the perimeter of the shell is cut, slam pad. bent and soldered to form

One of the silver plates is now soldered on one end of the cylindrical tidepiece with the seam to the back, to form the base. This piece forms both the top and the bottom and is a good way (when these are cut apart) to have them match

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A bezal of 20 gauge silver strip is formed around the shell and solder ed to the top plate,

The feet are three hollow beads. To moke them more sturdy, <t piece of round silver wit a it loldnr-«i through the hole* before they are soldered onto the bottom ol the box.

A circle is cut out of the top plate inside the bezel leaving enough room for the shell to be securely mounted. The plate is than Eitigned with the body of the box and jtplderad to the sidepiece. The base plate is trimmed with a jewel er's saw and The joint filed smooth. The lid is removed by sawing on a line about ¡4 inch lie low the top. This can be done with the Foredom toot using a thin circular saw or carborundum separating disk. \ aBsis!' ■ ''V.:iBfi" ;'r;

The bottom of the bo« stowing the three head feet in place f he finished box showing the button latch :

A tube and vJtre hir»tja ts niade and soldered to the tijp and bOttm^^,;,.'

Solder Cut Top

Cut a piece of 24 gauge plate 1/8 inch longer and )/8 inch wider than the top of the bottom of the box. Around the edges of this plate solder four pieces of number 10 square wire and fit carefully to hide the seem.

-TTtp two remaining pieces of silver tubing are soldered onto the edge of the top, under the square wire frame, in a position to form a continuous hinge when the box jJ assembled.

A large number of turquoise trianyies (75 or 801 are cut about 1/3 inch thick and one inch long. The angles should vary in order to make an interesting pattern. They are first fitted into place and then cemented with » strong black spoxy.

Holes are drilled in lhe 4 corners of the bottom oi the box to eic commodate the feet, which are put Dn with "Chicago screws" or "key post" fasteners.

After the box has been polished, the lid is fastened on with a piece of 12 gauge round wire pushed through the holes in the tubing. The ends are then peered.

Good results can be had by using a type that is made for repairing the dented fenders of cars. The kind shown here is "EasyPoxy" made by Conup, Inc., 1405 Buffalo St., Olean, New York, 14760. After setting for 24 hours, the entire top is ground on a fine lapidary wheel to a smooth dome. It is then sanded and polished.

The feel are m;id<f of 4 slightly I hi Inned turquoise beads about 5/8 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch thick, hand ground and polished, and drilhirt wiiJi » 1/8 inch hnkr through the center.

The lid is hammered on a ^^^^^HH dense piece of neopreiie^^^^ rubber with the frame of square wire down, in order to dome it. A wooden mallet with s slightly rounded end is used for this taction. /

Silver spoons were made by the Indian silversmith before 1900. Pictures taken about that time show a number of them in the process of manufacture in the workshops.

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