Three Ring Circulus

This pearl ring is a great example of contemporary jewelry design. Despite its simple construction, it looks quite sophisticated.

Designer: Cynthia B. Wuller

1 white freshwater pearl, 8V2- to 9-mm half-drilled, half-round

7% inches (19.7 cm) length of 20-gauge, dead-soft, gold-filled wire

Jeweler's cement


Metal ring mandrel



Safety glasses Chain-nose pliers

Wire cutters

Chasing hammer


Coiling wire (page 24)

1. Secure the ring mandrel in the vise.

2. Measure Vi inch (1.3 cm) in from one end ol the wire. Use chain-nose pliers to make a 90" bend at that measurement, making a short wire rail.

3. Put on the safety glasses. Place the tail perpendicularly on the mandrel. Move the wire to a position on the mandrel that s a half size smaller than your desired size. Use one hand to keep the tail at that measurement while you wrap the loose wire end around the mandrel three times (figure I).

4. Keeping the wire on the mandrel, use chain-nose pliers to grasp all three wraps. Pull the loose end of the wire toward the rail and make a ()() bend, this one parallel to the mandrel (figure 2).

5. I ightly coil the loose end of the wire around the o -

tail twice (figure 3). Trim the loose wire close to the wrap, and use chain-nose pliers to tighten.

6. Pake the ring oil the mandrel and slightly spread the ring band's wires apart, creating a '/8-inch

(3 mm) gap between each band.

Three-Ring Circ-ul-us 37

7. Place the ring back on the mandrel and hammer the three bands to create texture and to enlarge the ring to the correct size. When you are halfway through hammering, take the ring off die mandrel, flip it so the back band is now in front, and put it back on the mandrel: this will keep the band symmetrical. Adjust the bands with chain-nose pliers it they become crooked while hammering.

8. Remove the ring from the mandrel. Trim the tail wire to Vh inch (3 mm). Place the pearl on the tail to check that it's the correct height—the bottom of the pearl should be Hush with the coiled section. Cut down the wire, if necessary. Remove the pearl and fill the hole with glue. Put the pearl back onto the wire and hold it in place for one minute. Let it dry on the mandrel for 10 to 1 S minutes. Remove the ring from the mandrel and let the glue cure overnight.

This three-strand necklace is a great project to highlight a collection of orphan beads and chains from your stash. The clasp is embellished, which gives you the option to wear the toggle up front.

finished Size.

1. C"lit the 24-gauge wire into pieces, each approximately 12 inches (30.8


5 white freshwater pearls, 10-mm potato

16 golden freshwater pearls, 8-mm half-round potato

8 semiprecious citrine nuggets, 12 mm

16 semiprecious faceted African opal rounds, 5 mm

15 topaz and light topaz crystals in assorted shapes, 3 to 12 mm

6 gold-filled or sterling silver jump rings, 5 mm

1 gold-filled or sterling silver head pin, 3 inches (7.6 cm) long

1 gold-filled or sterling silver toggle clasp, 25 mm

Assorted gold-filled or sterling silver chain remnants, 45 inches (1.1 m) tota

5-foot (1.5 m) length of 24-gauge, gold-filled or sterling silver wire

Silver black or other patina

Paper towel

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