When you create your own jump rings, you'll find you have yet another flexible design option at your fingertips. Using the exact size and material you desire gives a world of possibilities.

1. Tightly and evenly coil a length of wire around the dowel. The more coils you make, the more jump rings you'll end up with.

2. Slide the wire off the dowel. Stretch the coil slightly to create space between each rotation (figure 1).

3. Use the flush side of the cutters to cut one coil off of the spring. Pick up the ring and face the cutters the other way to snip the other wire tip flush (figure 2).

Wire loops come in two versions, simple and wrapped.

Start .i simple loop by using i hain-nosc pliers to make a 90' bend Vs inch (9 mm) from the end of the wire; or, il you're using the loop to secure a bead (as with a bead dangle), make a 90' bend right at the top of the bead and cut the wire to -Vs inch (9 mm), as in photo

I se round-nose pliers to grasp the wire end and roll rhe pliers until the wire touches the 90 bend (photo 6).

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photo 6

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Begin a wrapped loop by using chain -nose pliers to make a l)()' bend in the wire 2 inches (3.9 mm) from one wire end (or 1'4 inch |6 mm| Horn the top of a bead) (photo 7).

Use round-nose pliers to grasp ihe bend and shape the wire over the pliers' top jaw (photo 8).

Reposition the pliers so the bottom jaw is in the loop and swing the wire underneath to lorm a loop (photo 9).

Use chain-nose pliers or your fingers to wrap the wire in a tight coil down the stem (photo 10). Trim the excess wire close to the wrap, and use chain-nose pliers to tighten the wire end.

You can easily and securely attach a wrapped loop to another loop or chain link. First form the loop, pass the wire end through the place you want to attach it, and then make the wrap, ihe loops will be permanently attached. (See I loncv Drizzle, page 39, for an illustration of this technique.)

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Stringing beads is a simple act—simply pass rhe thread or wire through a bead, and you've got it! It's how you arrange beads on the stringing material that creates masterpieces— that's what takes practice.

( limping wire is a stringing technique used to attach wire to a finding (like a clasp). Start bv stringing one crimp bead and the finding. Pass the wire back through rhe crimp bead in die opposite direction. Next, slide rhe crimp bead against the finding so it's snug, bur nor so tight that the wire can't move freely. Squeeze rhe crimp bead with the back l-shaped notc h in a pair oh crimping pliers (photo I I).

Turn the crimp bead at a 90° angle, and nestle it into the front notch. Gently squeeze the bead so it collapses on irscll into a nicely-shaped tube (photo 12).

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Knowing how to tic knots is verv important il you're working off-loom beading, bin the skill will come in handy for other beading as well.

Overhand knots a re formed by making a loop with the thread, passing the thread end through the loop, and pulling tight (figure I).

Slipknots are used in this book for starting beaded wire crochet. Form a loose overhand knot (above), but before you tighten it. use a crochet hook to catch a small loop of the stringing material (figure 2) and pull it through the center of the knot (figure 3).

Square knots Arc formed by first making an overhand knot, right end over left end, and finishing with another overhand knot, this time left end over right end (figure 4).

Surgeon's knots are extremely secure square knots. They are basically made the same way as a square knot, but when you make your first overhand knot, wrap the thread around itsell a few times before passing it through the loop, finish the knot with another overhand knot and pull tight (figure 5).

Off-Loom Beading

Off-loom heading refers to a large family of heading techniques that don't require a loom to create a smooth "fabric' of seed beads—just a needle and thread. I here arc dozens of vvavs to stitch beads together, but vou'Il

• C rf only need to know a few by heart to complete the projects in this book.

Simple fringe is a type of beaded embellishment made by stringing on a length ol beads and, skipping the last bead strung, passing the needle back through the rest oi the beads just strung (figure 6).

I .adder stitch is olten used to make a foundation row for brick or herringbone stitch. Begin by stringing two beads. Pass through the beads again to make a circle and manipulate them so they sit side by side (figure 7).

String one bead and pass down through the second bead initially strung and up through the one just strung. Repeat to add one bead at a time until you reach the desired length (figure 8).

General Off-Loom Beading Terms and Techniques

Pass throng,h means you'll pass the needle through the beads in the same direction as they were strung. Pass back through means you'll go through in the opposite direction.

You've made a row of off-loom beadwork when you've stitched beads in a line back and forth, and it results in a flat piece of beadwork. A round is created when you've stitched beads in circles, creating circular or tubular pieces of beadwork.

A stop, or tension, bead is used at the end of a working thread to keep beads from slipping off the end of the thread. To make one, simply string a bead and pass through it again once or twice. Once you've worked your piece enough that the beads are secure, you can easily remove the stop bead.

The tail thread is the length at the end of the thread that remains below the first bead you strung. The working thread is the portion of thread between the needle and the first beads strung. You use it to do your stitching.

To end a thread, weave through several beads on the body of the beadwork, tie an overhand knot on the threads between beads, pass through a few more beads to hide the knot, and trim the knot close to the work. You also use this technique to secure the thread when you're finishing a piece.

To start a new thread, thread a needle with the required length of thread. Pass through several beads on the body of the beadwork, tie an overhand knot between beads as desired, and continue to weave through the beads until you exit from a place where you can keep stitching.

Weaving through beads on an off-loom piece of beadwork means you're passing the needle through beads on the body of the beadwork so you can exit elsewhere. Keep your thread hidden by passing only through adjacent beads.

To reinforce off-loom beadwork, simply pass through the stitched beads more times than is required. This stiffens and strengthens the work.

The two heads just worked should sit side by side. String one bead and pass through the next bead on the base row and the bead just strung (figure 9).

Continue across the base strand, stitching one bead to one bead until vou

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