Endless variations of these chains are possible, using different widths and lengths of each chain, v Make 2 narrow links and treat them as one.

v Make alternate short and long links, v Make a tiny strip and wrap it around a link to alter the shape, and then join the ends.

v Make many links and then thread them together with a very' long, plain strip of beading, about a yard long. The strip goes back and forth through the links, keeping them in a brick pattern, and passing through each link twice See right-hand chain in photo on page 53. v Make extra-long links, fold them in half, and pass the joining link through both end loops.

Dumbbells with bead-rolled molds joined with chain links (Lynn Horniblow).

Ring chain tassel

Peyote stitch is used for these rings because it is flexible along the length of the beading, which goes horizontally around the neck of the tassel. It is also flexible when going vertically down the length of the neck so that the beading bends in and out of the spaces when secured by the tiny rings This direction of flexibility is also necessary for the looped and folded rings that hold the three over-tassels.

Materials seed or cylinder beads in 2 or 3 colors yarn for the cord


First, make all the rings as follows: 3 horizontal rings = 6 beads wide. 28

beads long, counted on one edge 3 long vertical rings = 4 beads wide. 60

beads long, counted on one edge 9 tiny securing rings = 2 beads wide, 12

beads long, counted on one edge 3 twisted rings for over-tassels = 2 beads wide, 40 beads long, counted on one edge.

loin the 3 horizontal rings, fitting the beads together like the teeth of a zipper Loop a long vertical ring over the three horizontal ones, and join the ends Loop a tiny securing ring around the long one between two of the vertical rings, and join the ends. Repeat with the other two tiny securing rings.

To prevent the bottom ring from falling off, join a twisted ring, fold it in half, and loop it through the bottom of

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