Before you start assembling the bracelet, you may want to gather your rivolis and stones and lay them on a sheet of paper. Arrange them into a pattern you like, placing a large stone at each end to connect to the closure, and trace around them to make a template. Keep in mind that once you bezel the rivolis and stones and start to connect them, you may have to adjust your plans.
On 24 in. (61 cm) of Firelinc, attach a stop head (Basics, p. 68), leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Using the wBezeling rivolis" chart (left) as a guide, pick up enough cylinder beads to fit around the rivoli or stone. Work in tubular peyote to bezel the rivoli (Basics), stitching a total of four rows with 11" cylinder beads with two rows of 15' seed beads on each side. Do not end the working thread or tail. Repeat to bezel the remaining stones and rivolis.
Lay out the rivolis and stones as you would like them to sit in the bracelet, using your template as a guide, if you made one. Start at one end of the bracelet and work to the other, using the tails from the bezels to make the connections.
 Sew through the bezel of an end rivoli or stone to exit the cylinder in the initial round where you would like to connect the next rivoli or stone. Pick up a 15°, sew through a cylinder in the initial round of the next rivoli or stone, pick up a 15°, and sew through the first cylinder again (photo a). Retrace the thread path several times to reinforce the connection. Sew through an adjacent cylinder on the first bezel and repeat to make a second connection.  Continue connecting the remaining rivolis and stones as in step 1, working from one end of the bracelet to the other. As you make the connections, try to keep the bracelet in a basic rectangular shape. Each rivoli or stone should connect to at least two others. When all the rivolis and stones arc connected, end all the threads (Basics).
 Add a new thread (Basics) to the outer edge of a large stone bezel at one end of the bracelet, exiting a cylinder in the initial round about five cylinders from the center of the edge. Working in peyote stitch, work five stitches across the edge of the bezel (photo b).
 Turn, and work in flat even-count peyote stitch (Basics) for 26 rows. To decrease the tab to a point, turn, and sew through the adjacent edge cylinder and the next cylinder in the row above (figure 1, a-b). Turn, and sew through the cylinder below, the bottom two edge cylinders, and the last cylinder in the last row (b-c). Work back across the row in peyote stitch, and repeat the turn at the opposite end (c-d). Continue decreasing each row until the tab comes to a point (d-e).
 Sew through the bcadwork to exit an edge cylinder where the tab meets the bezel. Pick up two 15"s, and sew through both I5vs again (figure 2, a-b). Sew under the thread bridge between the next edge cylinder and the cylinder after, and sew back through the second 15° (b-c). Continue working in brick stitch (Basics) along the length of the edge.
 To add 15°s to the tapered point, pick up a 15°, and sew through the previous 15v and the new 15° again (figure 3, a-b). Pick up a 15V, and sew through the next cylinder and the new 15° again (b-c). Continue working in modified square stitch (Basics) around
Catiry ¡Mtttpole of Ontario, Canada, enjoys the fine detail that can be achieved with head weaving. Besides designing jewelry, Catiry owns her head shop, That Bead \uidy. Contact her at [email protected].
the point of the tab, then use brick stitch to add 15"s to the other edge.
 Sew through the bead work to exit the center of the tab, 10 rows from the tip. Pick up two 15*$, a CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarouski rivoli button, and two 15% and sew back into the beadwork where the thread exited. Sew through the beadwork, and retrace the thread path several times to secure the button. End the thread.
 Repeat step 1 at the opposite end of the bracelet to start the other half of the clasp. Turn, and work seven rows of peyotc stitch with cylinders (figure 4, a-b). Turn, work two stitches (b-c), turn, and work back across the row (c-d). Continue working two stitches per row for 21 more rows (d-e).
 Add a second thread to the bead-work, and exit the tab at point y. Work two peyotc stitches per row for 24 rows (y-z).
 Using the thread from step 6, work two stitches, pick up three cylinders, and sew through the next up-bead in the strip from step 7 (e-f). Work the final stitch of the row, turn, and work a row of regular peyotc (f-g). Taper the point as in step 2 (g-h).
 Use the tail from step 7 to secure the join between the two strips, and end the thread.
 Repeat steps 3 and 4 to edge the second half of the clasp with I5°s. Exit the last 159 of the edging.
 Pick up a 15°, a 4 mm biconc crystal, and a 15". Skip the last 15", and sew back through the 4 mm (figure 5, a-b). Pick up a 15", and sew through the next two 15ws (b-c). Repeat along the straight edges, and along the tapered point, as shown in figure 6. End the threads, o
EDITOR'S NOTE: My rivoli button is only 12 mm, so I made my tab and my button hole smaller, and used 3 mm crystals to edge the tab. - Lesley eft,*... <>; : >.
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IN this little text-book the author has tried to combine the trade information which he has gained n his avocation, the study of precious stones, with the scientific knowledge bearing thereon, which his vocation, the teaching of chemistry, has compelled him to master.