MABE PEARL BEZEL
O Apply a thin, even layer of cement to the back of the mabe pearl and glue the pearl to the Ultrasuede. Set it aside to dry.
© Trim the Ultrasuede, leaving approximately % in. (3mm) around the pearl's edge. Stitch through the Ultrasuede several times to anchor your thread. With the Ultrasuede facing you, pick up a bead and stitch through the fabric so the bead is parallel to and about Vu In. (2mm) from the edge (photo a). Go through the bead again. © Continue with two-bead backstitch (see "Basics," p. 5) to sew beads around the edge of the Ultrasuede until you're back at the starting point (photo b). Go through a few beads along this base row. (This counts as rows 1 and 2.) © Work in peyote stitch (see "Basics," p. 5) around the base row until you're back at the start. (This is row 3.) © If the bead count for row 3 is even, step up to start the next row (see "Basics"). If the count is odd, continue without the step-up. As you stitch row 4, decrease (see "Basics") three or four beads equally spaced around the pearl. © Step up (even count) or simply continue (odd count) stitching to start the fifth and final row. As you stitch, place two beads in each decrease made in the previous row.
Q Determine where you want to place the teardrop pearl embellishment. Sew through the beads in row 5 until you reach your desired starting point and exit an "up" bead along the last peyote row. Pick up two beads, a teardrop pearl, and two beads. Stitch into the next "up" bead (photo c). Repeat until you've embellished approximately half the mabe pearl's perimeter. © Turn and continue the embellishment along row 3. Secure the thread in the beadwork.
O Work with a long strand of thread, waxed and doubled, but don't knot the tails.
© Deduct 1 in. (2.5cm) from your wrist measurement. Pick up the amount of beads to equal this length, then add or remove beads until the count is a multiple of 10. (You can adjust the finished length slightly
when you assemble the bracelet and attach the snaps.) Slide the beads to about 6 in. (15cm) from the tail ends. © Work in five-drop peyote, as follows: pick up five beads, skip five beads, and go through the next five beads (figure). Repeat across the row. © Continue until you have a total of 13 rows. The band will be just under 'A-in. (1.3cm) wide. Stitch additional rows if you prefer a wider band, ending with an odd number of rows. 0 With your thread exiting a "down" set of beads at the end of the last row, pick up two beads, a pearl, and two beads and stitch through the five high beads in the neighboring set (photo d). Continue making pearl picots across the row.
0 When you reach the end of the first side, zigzag through to the other side of the bracelet. Repeat step 5, adding pearl picots on the other edge of the band. Secure the thread in the beadwork.
O Start a new thread and exit a corner bead at the band's edge just below a pearl picot.
© Pick up a bead and go through the five-bead drop below the top corner (photo e). Turn and go back to the edge through the five-bead group below it. Repeat twice, adding a total of three beads along the band's short edge. © Peyote stitch across the newly added beads (photo f). If you need to increase the band's length, add a few more peyote rows. Go through these beads again several times to reinforce them.
© Stitch the band to a few beads on the unembellished section of the mabe pearl (photo g). Go through these beads several times to reinforce the stitches and secure the thread in the beadwork.
• Mabe pearl approx. 17. in. (3cm) diameter
• lOg Japanese cylinder beads
• 38-44 teardrop pearls
• Nymo D beading thread
• beeswax or Thread Heaven
• beading needles, #10
• medium-sized metal snap
• barge cement or E6000 glue
O Stitch half the snap onto the end of the bracelet band (photo h, left). © Before you stitch the other snap half onto the Ultrasuede, check the fit again. Position the snap for the most comfortable fit, then sew it into place (photo h, right). Glue all the knots and trim any thread tails. - Janet Flynrt
28 Thf Bnl of BrodMumyi
Peyote window bracelet
Peyote stitch is a favorite among many headers. It's versatile and creates an attractive woven appearance. This bracelet maintains the smooth look of flat peyote, but has added depth and the look of a fabricated piece of jewelry. Build the peyote-window bead in three stages: Work a peyote piece ten beads wide by ten rows to create the first tube. Build the second tube as an extension of the first by working a two-bead by ten-row strip at each end of tube #1. Finally, make the third tube full-size and attach it to the second tube at each end. This bracelet uses five window beads and is 7 in. (18cm) long, including the clasp. You will need five to seven window beads, depending on how long you want to make your bracelet.
MAKE THE WINDOW BEAD
O Thread a needle with 24 in. (61cm) of Nymo. String a cylinder bead and go through it again in the same direction, leaving a 4-in. (10cm) tail. 0 String nine more beads and work even-count flat peyote (see "Basics," p. 5) for a total of ten rows (counting diagonally) (photo a). © After you complete the last row, remove the extra thread loop on the first bead and weave in the tail. Roll the piece into a tube and stitch through the high beads, alternating between the first and last rows (photo b). Zigzag back through the joining row again. © Create tube #2 as an extension of the first tube (see figure). Come out through a bead at the right-hand end of the tube (figure, point a), pick up a bead (photo c), and sew through the bead at point b on tube #1, exiting at point c. Add another bead. Working in peyote, add a strip two beads wide by ten rows. When you've added the tenth bead, zigzag back down the strip from point d.
0 Roll the strip into a tube and zip it closed by zigzagging between the two beads on tube #1 where the strip began and the last two beads of the strip (photos d-f)- End by exiting the last bead on the strip (photo f and point e).
0 Weave across the tube from point f to point g (photo g). Repeat steps 4 and 5 starting at point g (photo h).
In photo i, both parts of tube #2 are complete.
O Wake tube #3 by repeating steps 1 through 3.
0 Zip tube #3 to tube #2 (photo j) to form a peyote-window bead.
STRING THE BRACELET
O Determine the finished length of the bracelet, add 4 in. (10cm), and cut three pieces of flexible beading wire to that length. Attach one end of each wire to the clasp using a crimp bead for each (see "Basics").
© On each strand, string a 2mm silver bead, a 4mm fire-polished bead, a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead, a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead, and a flat spacer, covering both the wire and its tail (photo k).
© Pass the two outer wires through the outer tubes on a window bead. String the middle wire through the first part of the center tube. Inside the window, string a 15" silver seed bead,
a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead, a flat spacer, and a 15° seed. Pass the wire through the second part of the tube (photo I). (Note: the 15> seed beads were omitted in our photo.) © String a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead, a flat spacer, a fire-polished bead, and a flat spacer.
© Repeat steps 3-4 for the length of the bracelet. After the last window bead, string the starting group in reverse. Thread a crimp bead, then go through the loop on the other clasp part. Go back through the crimp and several beads, snug up the beads, and crimp the crimp bead. - Roe Ann Wojahn
• 5g size 11° Japanese cylinder beads
• 47-59 4mm Czech fire-polished crystals
• 64-86 4mm flat sterling silver daisy spacer beads
• 6 2mm sterling silver spacer beads
• flexible beading wire, .012-019
• Nymo B beading thread
• beeswax or Thread Heaven
Tools: crimping or chainnose pliers, wire cutters
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