Bead around the bead

Beads Pattern Free

60 The Beit of BeodftButton

Center Detail

Center Detail

Japanese Beading
20mm round wooden bead Japanese cylinder beads, 5gm each of three colors (gold/silver-lined copper, matte black/matte gold, and ivory/alabaster) Nymo B or 0 beading thread, black beading needle, #10 or 12 beeswax or Thread Heaven black indelible marker (or color to match main color bead)

The challenge of beaded beads is achieving balanced color and design on such a tiny surface. I usually choose six to eight colors before I start a bead, and I never graph my designs, which occur spontaneously as I work. I make beads of every size, shape, and combination of these colors that I can think of before moving on to other colors. For me, making these beaded beads remains endlessly fascinating.

The following pattern uses a limited color palette so you can learn my basic technique. When you feel comfortable with it, try making beads with your own colors and designs.

O Color the wooden bead completely with the marker. Run 5-6 ft. (1.52-1.83m) of thread through beeswax or Thread Heaven. Thread the needle single with no knot.

© Pick up one matte gold bead and move it to the end of the thread. Tie the first half of a square knot around the bead, leaving a Vin. (1cm) tail. String two more gold beads, one copper, three gold, one alabaster, "three gold, one copper, three gold, one alabaster". Repeat" to " four more times for a total of 48 beads. Pass the needle through the first bead (with the knot) then through the entire circle and two beads past the knot. The needle exits before the copper bead (photo a). © Work this row (the third) without the wooden bead in circular peyote stitch (see "Basics," p. 5) with the following color pattern: "one copper, one gold, one alabaster, one gold." Repeat' to " five more times, adding a total of 24 beads. To start row 4, take the needle through the last bead in the previous row and the first bead added in this row for the step up. © Making sure the knot and the tail are on the underside of the circle, carefully slide the beadwork onto the ball to the middle where it fits most snugly (photo b). If the beadwork is stretched too tight, start over and choose larger cylinder beads for the foundation. (Note: even though Japanese cylinder beads are uniform, you'll notice some size variation that you can exploit to moke your designs

work.) Throughout the construction of this bead, choose beads that comfortably fill the spaces without crowding the work. The goal is to have as little thread show as possible without bumping the beads up out of place. Don't worry about being precisely in the middle at this point. Snip the tail to about '/. in. (6mm). © Working gently so you don't dislodge the beadwork, add only gold beads on row 4. Let the needle or the bead hang periodically to release the twist that will develop. Work row 5: one gold, one alabaster, one gold, one copper; repeat the pattern five more times. Make sure the tail stays flat and under the beadwork. Use only gold beads on row 6. © Begin row 7 with 'one alabaster bead then decrease by running the needle through the next two gold beads; add one copper and decrease again (photo c)." Repeat" to " five more times-12 beads added. © Zigzag the needle through the beadwork to exit the other side of the foundation row (photo d). © Repeat steps 5 and 6 on this side, making sure that the pattern lines up symmetrically.

© Now center the beadwork on the bead as exactly as possible. The next two steps will commit you to this placement, which will determine how even the holes will be. © Work row 8, placing three very short gold beads in each large space (photo e). If three beads won't fit, fill the spaces with two somewhat larger beads instead.

© Sew back to the other side and repeat step 10.

© Work row 9, alternating one copper and one alabaster and going through each group of gold beads as a single bead (photo f). From now on, repeat each row on the other side before working the next row. © Work row 10 with two gold beads in each large space. © Work row 11 in the same pattern as row 9.

© Work row 12 in the same pattern as row 10.

© Work row 13 as row 9. © Work row 14 with one gold bead in each space (photo g).

Peyote Around BeadHow Tie Thread Over Bead

When the thread starts to run short, end it by zigzagging back through the work. Go around a thread between two beads and tie a half hitch knot (photo h). Go through two to three more beads and pull the knot inside the first bead. Holding the thread taut, cut it as close to the last bead as possible, and the end will pop back into the bead. Begin a new thread by zigzagging through two to three beads several rows before the last. Knot as before. Then zigzag through the work to the point where you stopped.

Work row 17 adding one alabaster bead and going through two beads on the previous row (you'll be skipping the copper beads with this decrease)-six beads added.

<3( Work row 18 with one copper bead in each space. Then go back through the six copper beads added on this row to reinforce it (photo i). After repeating this row on the other side, end the thread by weaving it in as described above. - Sharri Moroshok

62 The Bat of BcodHButtor

Ball Peyote Stitch

Wonder beads unveiled

Learn to design and embellish these hollow, peyote-stitch gems in just about any design you can imagine. Once you can make the two basic shapes shown here, you'll be ready to experiment with other shapes, sizes, and colors. Have fun!

Make Wonder Beads using circular peyote for the body section, then decrease sharply and add smaller peyote tubes at each end. Embellishing the surface stiffens the bead and reinforces its structure.


O Start the circular peyote body by stringing 32 main color (MC) beads. Tie the tail and working thread together with a square knot (see "Basics," p. 5) to make a circle, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail to weave in later. These beads make up rows 1 and 2.

© Work nine more rows of circular peyote (see "Basics") for a total of 11 rows. (A 32-bead tube fits comfortably around a fat Sharpie marker.) Keep the tension tight as you work; the peyote body should be stiff. Step up as if you were about to start row 12 (photo a).

Uneven Peyote Tubular Stitch Tutorial

© With your thread exiting a bead on row 11, string on one accent color (AC) and one MC bead. Turn, and go back through the AC bead to make a "spike." Go through the next two beads

Beading With Spike Beads

(figure, opposite page) in the same direction as in step 2. Repeat, making a total of 16 spikes. When you complete the last spike, work the thread back to the main-color bead at the end of that spike (photo b).

© Take the needle through the main color beads on all 16 spikes to form a tight circle. Go through the circle of beads a second time and tie a half-hitch knot (see "Basics") within the work to secure the circle. These beads become the base for another section of circular peyote. Stitch through the next bead to avoid starting at the knot. Work three additional rows of circular peyote to form a five-row cuff (photo c). © Work the thread back through several cuff beads until it exits an MC bead at the end of a spike in row 2. Pick up an AC bead, skip an end bead, and stitch through the next end bead (photo d). Continue until you have eight AC beads in this row. @ Work diagonally through one bead to begin the next row and add AC beads as before. This row of beads will be offset from the first. Work through to the next row and add another row of AC beads. Before cutting the thread, weave through several beads to secure it. This layer of beads looks like a checkerboard (photo e). O Add thread on the bead's other side and repeat steps 3-6, but don't cut the thread when you're done. © Stitch back through the cuff and spikes and exit from a bead in the e second to the last row on the body section (not the row connected to spikes). Pick up an AC bead and stitch through the next bead in that row (photo f). Complete the row, adding a total of 16 accent beads. © Skip a row by stitching diagonally through two beads. Add AC beads as in step 8. These beads line up with the beads in the first row. © Add three more rows of AC beads (photo g). Weave the thread through several beads before cutting.

SAUCER-SHAPED WONDER BEAD O Follow steps 1-8 above, working seven rows of circular peyote for the body instead of 11.

© After completing the first row of AC beads (step 8, above), stitch diagonally to the next row. Add another row of AC beads. These beads will be offset from the ones in the previous row. Stitch these two rows together by zigzagging between beads (photo h). Once the rows are stitched together, they look like two rows of peyote on top of the main color.

© Work two rows of peyote off the accent beads added in step 2. These rows are not attached to the bead's body. Sew back into the body and work the fifth row the same as accent row 1, stitching through the next-to-last row of the body section. When complete, stitch this row to row 4, as in step 2. © With the thread exiting a bead in row 4, use MC beads to add three g embellishment rows over layer 2. Stitch them together tightly by zigzagging between beads (photo i). Because the circumference of the bead has increased, use the largest of the beads for these outer layers. © To make the final layer, stitch two accent beads into each space along the center row of MC beads added in step 4. Then add single accent beads in the remaining spaces (photo j). - Sue Jackson and Wendy Hubick

64 JhcBnt of BcodftButton

Wendy Sue Bead Work


• Japanese cylinder beads: main color and two accent colors

• Nymo 0 or Silamide beading thread

• beeswax or Thread Heaven for Nymo

Sue Jackson Wendy Hubick


• When designing your own Wonder Beads, start with an even number of beads divisible by four. A 32-bead diameter is a good size to embellish, but larger Wonder Beads have space for more intricate patterns

• For a symmetrical bead, you must have an uneven number of rows in the body.

• When making the spike, substitute a size 1 bugle or two cylinder beads for the AC bead. This changes the bead's profile from a compact shape to a more elongated one.

• Do as many spike decrease rows in a bead as you'd like. For example, if you start with a 48-bead body, you can decrease to 24 beads, then to 12 beads, and even six beads Cuffs between spike decreases need at least three rows

• The stabilizing layer, although decorative, is very important for making Wonder Beads stiff enough to keep their shapes

• For the embellishment layer, try 2mm beads. Semi-precious stones, glass, and precious metals work well when they are not too closely spaced.



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Round Peyote For Beaded Bead

Beaded buttons

n* 8c« of fleodMunwi

The principle for covering a button form in peyote stitch is similar to making a beaded bead. You start at the widest point of the circumference and work decreases to close the beadwork at the center. The trick with the button is to work with small enough beads to create an interesting pattern and to use the decreases to help shape the pattern without bulges or gaps.

Test the beads for colorfastness in hot water and laundry detergent if you plan to wash the buttons. It's safer, however, to attach these buttons with button pins and remove them before washing or dry cleaning. Beads that are washfast may not be colorfast when subject to dry cleaning solvents.

Cover the button forms smoothly in quilter's-weight cotton or polyester/ cotton. Use a solid color or a small-scale print. Almost no fabric will show. Then sew a ring of seed beads one at a time around the edge of the button. Work peyote stitch into this base round. Decrease when the beadwork reaches the top side of the button. Decreases will become more frequent as you near the center. Make more buttons, experimenting with patterns and the decrease placement.

If the first round of sewn beads is an even number (24 in these patterns), you will have a step-up; if there are an odd number, you won't, and you'll be able to do spirals of patterns. For different size beads or button forms, you will have to determine the best number of beads around the edge, the most effective number of decreases per round, and the appropriate frequency of decreases. Decreases look best if they're spaced evenly. I find that six or seven per round work well. Plan the starting number of beads to be divisible by the number of decreases. As a rule of thumb, if your beadwork bulges, you need to work a decrease round at this point or on the round before. For circular peyote stitch and rapid decreasing, see "Basics," p. 5.

0 Thread a beading needle with about

1 yd. (.9m) of Nymo or Silamide and take a small backstitch on the top of the button form to secure the thread (photo a, p. 68). Bring the thread under

Circular Flat Peyote Graph

Sew to button m

Circular Beading

diagram 3

diagram 2

Decrease Peyote Stitch

diagram 5

illustrations by Teni Field

Side of button

Sew to button m diagram 3

diagram 5

illustrations by Teni Field

Thread path for 24-bead peyote-stitch button diagram 2

Peyote Stitch Beading Projects 67

the cloth with several stitches and exit near the bottom edge. © Sew one orange seed bead onto the cloth at the bottom edge with the hole parallel to the edge of the button. Bring the needle back out half a bead space beyond the first bead. Repeat around (photo b) for 24 beads, ending with a small space between the last and first beads of the row. Go through the first bead.

© Pick up one blue bead and begin peyote stitching by going through the second orange bead (photo c). Continue peyote stitching around (rows 2 and 4 blue, row 3 orange) until the beadwork is level with the edge of the button top (four rows-photo d). © Work the first round of the top without decreasing. Follow diagram 2 on p. 67. Dots on beads indicate the first bead of the row. See the top diagram for the thread path. © For the first decrease round, work three stitches and one decrease six times-18 blue beads. Decrease by bringing the needle through two high beads instead of one (photo e). 0 Work the next two rounds normally. Put one bead in the space where you went through two on the row below (photo f)-18 beads. © Decrease on the next round: go through two beads and add an orange; go through one bead and add a blue. Repeat around six times-12 beads. Work the next two rounds without decreasing. Photo g shows the last stitch, orange, and the step-up, which is a bit more involved than usual. You must step up through three beads rather than two. © On the last decrease round, decrease each pair of stitches into one -six blue. Work a final round with six orange beads. Then go through the six beads to pull them together. Exit any center bead and string one blue or orange bead to fill the hole. Enter the bead opposite the one you exited from the opposite direction (photo h). Weave the thread through beads, then under the cloth, and out the side to end it. - David Chatt

David Chatt


• size 14" Czech or size 15" Japanese seed beads in two colors (blue and orange)

• 5*-in. covered button forms (slightly dome-shaped)

• scrap of cotton or polyester/cotton fabric (2 square, in. per button)

• Nymo B or Silamide beading thread to match darker bead


• size 14" Czech or size 15" Japanese seed beads in two colors (blue and orange)

• 5*-in. covered button forms (slightly dome-shaped)

• scrap of cotton or polyester/cotton fabric (2 square, in. per button)

• Nymo B or Silamide beading thread to match darker bead

68 The Best of BeodftBotton


Peyote Amulet
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