Instructions

1. Make the base chain. First, create your own jump rings as follows. Cut a 6-foot length (1.8 m) of the 20-gauge gold-filled wire and wind it tightly in a coil around the knitting needle. (You'll need 118 jump rings altogether.) Slide the coil off the needle, and spread the rings slightly to make them easier to cut. Cut one ring off with the flush side of the wire cutters, then flip the cutters to cut the other wire tip of the ring flush. Continue with the other rings in the coil. Link the jump rings in pairs, using the two needle-nose pliers to make a 6V:2-inch (16.5 cm) chain. (Later you'll attach each half of the toggle clasp to the chain with the extra jump rings.)

2. Next, start to make the ring of the toggle clasp. Use the wire cutters to cut a 3Vi-inch (8.9 cm) piece of 20-gauge gold-filled wire, and then make a simple loop at one end with the round-nose pliers.

3. Add 11 of the round strawberry conch shell beads, with one gold spacer ring in between each shell. Curve the wire into a ring, making sure the beads are spaced far enough apart so that the wire can bend into a circle. Close with a second simple loop, and rotate the ends so they are parallel to each other. Connect the two ends together with a jump ring.

4. To make the bar of the clasp, measure and cut a 1%-inch (4.4 cm) piece of 20-gauge gold-filled wire, and create a simple loop at one end. Add three conch shell beads and two gold spacers, interspersing the spacers between the beads.

Designer's Tip

If you would prefer not to make your own jump rings as described in step 1, you can instead go to a jewelry-supply store or catalog and purchase 20-gauge gold-filled jump rings with an interior diameter of 3 mm or slightly less. If you do, you will only need a 1 -foot (30.5 cm) length of gold-filled wire to make the project.

Take an extra piece of20-gauge gold-filled wire and create a small figure eight (i.e., two simple loops). Add the figure eight to the toggle bar, and then slide three additional conch shell beads onto the bar, with gold spacers between them as in step 4. Close of} the bar with another simple loop. Attach the figure eight to the end of the base chain with a jump ring (figure 1), fig. 1

To prepare all of the beads for assembly, start by cutting a 2-inch (5.1 cm) to 2Vi-inch (6.4 cm) piece of 24-gauge gold-filled wire. (The larger shells may need the larger piece of wire.) Using the round-nose pliers, form a simple loop at one end. Add one of the beads to the wire. Secure the wire end and bead with a dab of glue. Repeat this step for each bead.

To construct the bracelet, lay out the beads in the following order:

• *3 strawberry conch shell beads

• Golden-lip shell

• Strawberry conch shells

• Mother-of-pearl nugget

Repeat from * with the remaining beads.

Start at one end of the chain, and begin attaching the beads. Attach one bead to either side of a link set, using the wrapped loop technique. Continue adding beads in this fashion until you come to the end of the bracelet. Adjust the beads on each link so that there are not too many of the same beads on one side.

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Designer: Jeannette Chiang Bardi

Finished Size

MVi inches (44.5 cm) long Materials

30-inch (76.2 cm) length of 22-gauge square half hard gold-filled wire, either 12/20 or 14/20

5 round cream color (natural) river stone beads, 6 mm

5 round earth tones (natural) picture jasper beads, 6 mm

6 round gold Swarovski crystal pearls, 6 mm

5 round black Swarovski crystal pearls, 6 mm

3 diamond-shaped black imitation cinnabar beads, 15 mm

Antique brass Chinese Zodiac "protective talisman" coin drop, 30 x 23 mm

6-inch (15.2 cm) length of black leather cord, 2 mm

4 gold-filled or gold-plated coil ends, each 10.5 x 3 mm

Lobster clasp with ring, 12 x 5 x 2.5 mm

Tools

Ruler or tape measure Wire cutters Round-nose pliers Flat-nose pliers Scissors

Instructions

1. To make the bead/wire components, begin by cutting the gold-filled wire with the wire cutters into twenty-three l-inch (2.5 cm) lengths and three l'/2-inch {3-8 cm) lengths.

2. Take one of the l -inch (2.5 cm) lengths of gold-filled wire, and using the round-nose pliers, bend lA inch (8.5 mm) of the wire into a simple loop. Slip a 6-mm bead on the straight end of the wire. With the bead snug to the first loop, create a second loop on the other end of the head, but leave the loop slightly open (see the steps in figure I). Create a total of 21 bead/wire components out of the 6-mm beads, using the l-inch (2.5 cm) lengths of gold-filled wire.

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