Jou It need

Materials Basic Zigzag Ring

2 in. (51mm) 24-gauge, half-hard wire 14mm focal bead

Crystal Burst Zigzag Ring

3 in. (76mm) 24-gauge, half-hard wire 40-50 2mm sterling silver rounds 40-50 4mm bicone ciystals

Art Bead Zigzag Ring

7-9 in. (18-23cm) 16-gauge, half-hard wire Art bead (I used a bead by artist Jeff Plath)

Tools and supplies

Chainnose pliers Roundnose pliers Flatnose pliers Side cuttors Bench block Chasing hammer Ring mandrel Ruler

Self-stick notes

As you bend and hammer the wire, your ring will become sturdier. There is a limit, however; too much work-hardening can make wire brittle and prone to breakage.

basic zigzag ring

1 To determine your ring size, wrap a self-stick note around your finger and make a mark at one full wrap. If you know your size, work directly on the mandrel at the correct size.

1 To determine your ring size, wrap a self-stick note around your finger and make a mark at one full wrap. If you know your size, work directly on the mandrel at the correct size.

3 Using flatnose pliers and the 16-gauge wire, make a loose spiral on one end.
5 Cut the straight wire end to approximately 1 Vi in. (38mm) and shape a second spiral. Check that your component is the desired length and adjust if necessary.

4 Using flatnose pliers, make zigzags until the wire component approximately one-spiral-width than the desired length.

:rystal burst zigzag

7 Shape the wire component 3round the mandrel.

2 Measure this distance in millimeters for precision. (My size ring measured 54mm.) Subtract t length of the focal bead plus 2mn from the total ring measurement to get the length of your wire component. (My wire component was 38mm.)

0 Wrap 24-gauge w re around the de of one spiral.

8 If necessary, continue to curve the shape with flatnose pliers.
11 String the bead on the wire, finish wrapping the wire around the side of the other spiral, and tuck in the wire ends.

ring

9 Check the fit on the mandrel, allowing room for the focal bead.

Follow steps 1-9 of the Basic gzag Ring. Make 40-50 wire-rapped crystal components using nm bicones and 2mm silver >unds on head pins.

2 Wrap 24-gauge wire twice around the side of one spiral, string half of the wrapped-loop components, wrap twice around the side of the other spiral, and string the remaining components on the wire. Wrap twice around the side of the first spiral and tuck in the wire ends.

6 Place the wire component on the bench block and hammer it, flattening it slightly.

Follow steps 1-9 of the Basic gzag Ring. Make 40-50 wire-rapped crystal components using nm bicones and 2mm silver >unds on head pins.

LU h-z art bead zigzag ring

1 Determine the ring size in millimeters as for the Basic Zigzag Ring. Using flatnose pliers, make zigzags in the 16-gauge wire until the component reaches the ring size length. Trim the straight wire ends to in. (38mm).

2 Place the component on the bench block and hammer only the zigzag section to flatten; do not hammer the straight sections.
4 String both straight ends through the bead and shape the wires around the bead to hold it.
3 Shape the wire component around the mandrel using flatnoa pliers until the ring is the desired size. Bend the straight ends of th( wire as shown.
5 Make small spirals at the ends of both wires toward the back o the bead.

Many fresh designs can flow from the Zigzag Rings techniques! Use two wires for a two-holed bead such as the eye bead below.

Large donuts have a lot of surface, making them a nice backdrop for wire embellishment. Highlight the special colors and textures of a donut with complementary beads.

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2 Using flatnose pliers, make a soft 90° bend in both wires.

2 Using flatnose pliers, make a soft 90° bend in both wires.

you 'll need

Materials

8-24 in. (46-61cm) 18-gauge, dead-soft wire 0-12 in. (25-31cm) 24-gauge, dead-soft wire leftist one donut. 1 Vi-2 in. (38-51mm) diam. Assorted 3-8mm pearls, gemstone beads, arid ciystals

Tools and supplies

;hainnose pliers tcxjndnose pliers latnose pliers tde cutters mall stepped wire-wrapping pliers Viler

Using chainnose or flatnose liers, make soft zigzags or curves > both wires until you reach the pening of the donut.
After wrapping the entire donut, ring the wire ends to the front of Ho piece. Make a spiral at the end f each wire, leaving a Via-Vi* in. l-8mm) gap between the spirals.
1 On the first step of the wire-

wrapping pliers, make a bail from the 18-gauge wire. Work from the center of the wire and make two complete turns.

4 String both ends of the wire through the opening of the donut.
7 Wrap 24-gauge wire around one of the spirals several times and tuck in the end. String a bead, attach the wire to the second spiral, trim the wire, and tuck in the end.

5 Use roundnose pliers to create U-turns and S-bends in the wire as you continue to wrap around the donut. Occasionally string the wire through the donut opening to hold the donut securely.

8 Continue embellishing by wire-wrapping beads to the front.

Use this technique wherever you want to use donuts—for bracelets and pins as well as pendants.

Use this technique wherever you want to use donuts—for bracelets and pins as well as pendants.

necklace, bracelet, and earrings necklace, bracelet, and earrings

This project has a very clean and contemporary look. The wire setting elegantly frames the pearls, almost like a bezel.

to make the bracelet to make the bracelet

Materials

square wire 12-15 in (31-38cm) 24-gaugc, dead-soft wire 8-10 in. (20~25cm) largo-link chain 6-8 in. (1 S-20cm) large-link chain 4 links of large-bnk chain (for earrings) Lobster claw dasp 22-gauge head pin 11 open jump rings Toggle clasp 2 earring wires 10-12 14mm shell pearls 4mm silver rounds

4 String a pearl on the 24-gauge wire. Wrap the wire three times on the other side of the frame going in the opposite direction. Trim the wire and tuck in the end.

5 Trim the straight ends of the square wire to approximately Vh (5mm).

Use the third step of the wire-vrapping pliers to make a ring with he 22-gauge square wire. Wrap igain to make two complete rings.

2 Starting with one end of the 24-gauge wire, wrap around the overlap three times.

3 String a pearl on the 24-gauge wire. Wrap the wire three times on the other side going in the opposite direction, trim, and tuck in the end with chainnose pliers.

Materials

square wire 12-15 in (31-38cm) 24-gaugc, dead-soft wire 8-10 in. (20~25cm) largo-link chain 6-8 in. (1 S-20cm) large-link chain 4 links of large-bnk chain (for earrings) Lobster claw dasp 22-gauge head pin 11 open jump rings Toggle clasp 2 earring wires 10-12 14mm shell pearls 4mm silver rounds

Tools and supplies

Chainnose pliers RouixJnose pliers Flatnose pliers Side cutters

Small stepped wire-wrapping pliers Ruler

Choose pearls of the same size for the best results.

4 String a pearl on the 24-gauge wire. Wrap the wire three times on the other side of the frame going in the opposite direction. Trim the wire and tuck in the end.

5 Trim the straight ends of the square wire to approximately Vh (5mm).

Use the third step of the wire-vrapping pliers to make a ring with he 22-gauge square wire. Wrap igain to make two complete rings.

2 Starting with one end of the 24-gauge wire, wrap around the overlap three times.

Choose pearls of the same size for the best results.

6 Working near the tip of the roundnose pliers, make a tiny loop on each side of the frame.

7 For a 7-in. (18cm) bracelet, m 7 framed pearl components anfi connect them with jump rings. Connect the toggle loop to on» end with a jump ring and use at least three rings to connect the toggle bar.

5 Attach the ear wire to the chain. Repeat to make a second earring.

3 String a pearl on the 24-gauge wire. Wrap the wire three times on the other side going in the opposite direction, trim, and tuck in the end with chainnose pliers.

I Trim the ends of the square wire, aving approximately Vi6 in. (5mm). he wire ends point in opposite directions; working with one end at i time, roll a tiny loop back over the ^ 'raps so the two loops function as ne. Attach a two-link chain as you rm the loops.

5 Attach the ear wire to the chain. Repeat to make a second earring.

framed pin mm

Making this stylized leaf pin is a great way to play with a nature-inspired color palette on a miniature scale.

2 Use your fingers to shape a simple leaf form approximately

1 Bend the 18-gauge wire in half and squeeze the bend with flatnose pliers to make the point of the leaf.

3 Use flatnose pliers to bend the ends of the wire at sharp angles so they are parallel to each other.

4 Hammer the leaf shape to flatten the wire, avoiding the straight sections.

Bend one of the straight sections it is perpendicular to the other.

i the wire to 3 in. (76mm) and a spiral. Hammer the spiral to it slightly.

6 Wrap the bent wire around the straight wire several times. Tighten the wrap with chainnose pliers.

7 Bring the wire that you wrapped toward the tip of the leaf. Wrap it several times around the tip and tighten the wrap.

Wou 11 need

Materials

20-24 in. (SI-61cm) 18-gauge, half-hard wire 5-6 ft. (1.5-2m) 24-gauge. dead-soft wire 130-150 assorted 3-6mm crystals and pearls

Tools and supplies

Jnainnose pliers toundnos« pliers latnose pliers ide cutters «nch block basing hammer harponing stone uler

3 Use flatnose pliers to bend the ends of the wire at sharp angles so they are parallel to each other.

2 Use your fingers to shape a simple leaf form approximately

4 Hammer the leaf shape to flatten the wire, avoiding the straight sections.

Bend one of the straight sections it is perpendicular to the other.

i the wire to 3 in. (76mm) and a spiral. Hammer the spiral to it slightly.

1 Bend the 18-gauge wire in half and squeeze the bend with flatnose pliers to make the point of the leaf.

6 Wrap the bent wire around the straight wire several times. Tighten the wrap with chainnose pliers.

9 Use roundnose pliers to start a spiral at the other end, facing the opposite direction of the first spiral. Continue making a loop with your fingers, gently shaping the remaining wire toward the first spiral on the other end. Shape the loop toward the back of the leaf so that the pin wire falls behind the leaf. Pin the wire on the spiral hook and trim to approximately Va in. (7mm) past the hook.

7 Bring the wire that you wrapped toward the tip of the leaf. Wrap it several times around the tip and tighten the wrap.

13 The wire coils you made around the center wire will help anchor the new beaded segments. Continue adding segments until the second half of the leaf is full.

14 Sharpen the wire end and lightly hammer the pin to work-harden.

10 Cut the 24-gauge wire into a comfortable length (between 18-36 in./46-91cm). Wrap the wire end around the leaf frame near the second spiral 5-10 times.

11 String beads to fill the gap between the center wire and the frame. Wrap the wire around the center wire twice and bring the wire around the frame from the back.

10 Cut the 24-gauge wire into a comfortable length (between 18-36 in./46-91cm). Wrap the wire end around the leaf frame near the second spiral 5-10 times.

11 String beads to fill the gap between the center wire and the frame. Wrap the wire around the center wire twice and bring the wire around the frame from the back.

12 Wrap the frame 5-10 times. (Wrap 10-15 times if you like wider gaps between beaded segments.) Continue wrapping and adding beaded segments to fill one side of the leaf shape, occasionally spiraling the wire around larger beads on its return to the frame. Secure the wire by wrapping it around the frame tightly. Trim and tuck the wire end.

13 The wire coils you made around the center wire will help anchor the new beaded segments. Continue adding segments until the second half of the leaf is full.

14 Sharpen the wire end and lightly hammer the pin to work-harden.

Using this technique with different colors of seed beads of the same size will give you an entirely different look. Try it!

Using this technique with different colors of seed beads of the same size will give you an entirely different look. Try it!

Wire-wrapping a cabochon is a great alternative to a traditionally fabricated bezel. No torch or solder is required!

6 Shape the top of the outline around the top of the cabochon; it must fit the cab very closely. Use a permanent marker to mark the intersection of the two sets of wire.

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